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Routes in Old Easy

Bear Flare, The T V6 7A
Biggest Lips in Rock 'n' Roll, The V3 6A
Biggest Tits in Country Music, The T V3 6A
Bombay Hooker V6 7A
Boneghazi V3 6A
Borg, The V12 8A+
Cheap Perfume V1 5
Cheap Perfume Direct V1 5
Cincinatti Sua Slide T V5-6 6C+
Classic Splitter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V-easy 3
Dancing All Night T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Desiderata T V5- 6C
Finger Fantasy T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gehe Jetzt T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Grief T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guardian T V7 7A+
Hatchet, The V6 7A
MRC Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
MRC Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Name Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Old Easy Arete (aka "Arettez Maintenant") S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Psychoshop T V7 7A+
Red Snapper, The T V10 7C+
Reverse Cowgirl V2 5+
Soggy Bottom T V5 6C
Straight Edge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Justin Edl and Bonnie Botello
Page Views: 1,008 total, 12/month
Shared By: JNE on Oct 24, 2010
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is a really cool, bombay, roof crack. Start at the very back of the roof and burl your way out to the lip using an interesting combination of chimney and hand/tight hand crack technique. The lip is a committing offwidth and fist sequence above an uneven landing.

Location

Park in the main parking lot in Central, right below the western side of Old Easy, and begin walking up the paved trail into Box Canyon. When you get to the first picnic area on the right, which is overhung by an immense boulder, cut up into the talus. Upon entering the talus, look for the big boulder with the obvious and promising forty five degree overhanging face which more or less faces down toward the parking lot. This boulder is near the bottom of the talus field. Scramble up the talus beneath this overhang and look left to spy this A-frame roof crack.

Protection

Pads and spotters. Though the lip is only about ten feet up, pinballing out of it would be a bad idea.

Photos

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