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Routes in Old Easy

Bear Flare, The T V6 7A
Biggest Lips in Rock 'n' Roll, The V3 6A
Biggest Tits in Country Music, The T V3 6A
Bombay Hooker V6 7A
Boneghazi V3 6A
Borg, The V12 8A+
Cheap Perfume V1 5
Cheap Perfume Direct V1 5
Cincinatti Sua Slide T V5-6 6C+
Classic Splitter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V-easy 3
Dancing All Night T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Desiderata T V5- 6C
Finger Fantasy T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gehe Jetzt T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Grief T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guardian T V7 7A+
Hatchet, The V6 7A
MRC Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
MRC Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Name Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Old Easy Arete (aka "Arettez Maintenant") S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Psychoshop T V7 7A+
Red Snapper, The T V10 7C+
Reverse Cowgirl V2 5+
Soggy Bottom T V5 6C
Straight Edge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 175 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 139 total, 2/month
Shared By: Phil Lauffen on Aug 22, 2011
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Pull over the lip with high feet and underclings to gain a jug and easy ground to the first bolt. Clip the bolt and traverse low right to a mantle move onto a chicken head, and clip a second bolt. Make some slabby moves to gain the third bolt which is a little higher and to the right. Clip the older bolt and move yet again up and right to gain a nice, but short hand crack which turns into a seam. Make some difficult moves to gain a ledge, where you can belay.

From there, move to the left edge of the ledge and pull through the 5.8 fist crack/bulge. The more insecure you are willing to get, the easier it is. From here, move left up the easy crack/flake until you can move straight up on unprotected 5.4. Gain a 5.6ish fist crack and belay at the top at two bolts.

I linked this into 1 varied pitch with good use of slings. Less confident leaders should probably break it into two pitches.

Location

This route is located about 100 yards up and right of MRC Direct. Scramble up the blocks until a hanging slab is above you with a few bolts on it.

To get off, walk across the top of the formation to the rap anchor located above MRC Direct. Two single rope raps will get you down. You could probably also rap off the anchors at the top of the climb with two ropes.

Protection

Standard rack. You should have 2 #3s, and a #4 if you feel uncomfortable on fist cracks.

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