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Routes in Old Easy

Bear Flare, The T V6 7A
Biggest Lips in Rock 'n' Roll, The V3 6A
Biggest Tits in Country Music, The T V3 6A
Bombay Hooker V6 7A
Boneghazi V3 6A
Borg, The V12 8A+
Cheap Perfume V1 5
Cheap Perfume Direct V1 5
Cincinatti Sua Slide T V5-6 6C+
Classic Splitter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V-easy 3
Dancing All Night T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Desiderata T V5- 6C
Finger Fantasy T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gehe Jetzt T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Grief T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guardian T V7 7A+
Hatchet, The V6 7A
MRC Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
MRC Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Name Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Old Easy Arete (aka "Arettez Maintenant") S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Psychoshop T V7 7A+
Red Snapper, The T V10 7C+
Reverse Cowgirl V2 5+
Soggy Bottom T V5 6C
Straight Edge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Ben Boykin, Dean Twitchell, c.1993
Page Views: 1,102 total, 9/month
Shared By: Ben Boykin on Jun 22, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Sustained crystalline friction at 5.9, first 3 bolts. Tech crux at the 4th bolt (might even be 10a). Rob Kelman, guidebook author, downrated route from original rating of 10a to 9 in 1994's "Heel & Toe." Recently (2007), Rob said, "It's become harder. Couldn't be because I've gotten older, could it??" This would be a bad route for the second to fall of of, hence I have added two more bolts in the middle section & one at the very top.

Location

Look for an obvious line of bolts on the rounded arete to the left when about to begin the 3rd class approach to MRC. Standard descent from Old Easy's MRC area.

Protection

All 3/8-inch bolts. Sustained crystalline friction at 5.9, first 3 bolts. Tech crux at the 4th bolt (might even be 10a) with sporty reach to easier ground at the 5th [new] bolt; 6th [new] bolt sets up leader to 5.4 moves to [new] 6th bolt, leading to loose, gravelly crystals at the 7th & 8th bolts. [New] 9th bolt protects second from the big swing should footing be insecure. Natural anchor (an 18-foot cordelette works well around the boulder at the top). At the middle section, we used to reach over the arete and place a few small Camalots in the crack underneath, but being as that was "Department of Prior Knowledge," I chose to add bolts here this year (2007).

Photos

Jason Albino
San Francisco, CA
  5.9+
Jason Albino   San Francisco, CA
  5.9+
We did this on our first trip to The Voo July 2013.

A great starting pitch on the formation to link-up with the MRC climbs. If you've never climbed before on this formation, it's easy to spot the shiny bolts from the approach trail to get your bearing.

A 5.9 rating, though, is ridiculous for the crux move around the 4th bolt. That move felt like super-delicate 5.10b slab to me, though it did seem that any slabby movement at The Voo felt sandbagged in general (perhaps because any slab is so very novel in the grand scheme of Voo-style climbing).

That said, the pitch is well-protectable with the bolts and very aesthetic. Recommended. Jul 18, 2013
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.10a/b
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.10a/b
Hard (UK 5c+) edging moves by bolt 4. If you slipped on the easier friction moves to reach bolt 5, the ledge below would be very nasty to land on. Oct 16, 2011