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Routes in Old Easy

Bear Flare, The T V6 7A
Biggest Lips in Rock 'n' Roll, The V3 6A
Biggest Tits in Country Music, The T V3 6A
Bombay Hooker V6 7A
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Borg, The V12 8A+
Cheap Perfume V1 5
Cheap Perfume Direct V1 5
Cincinatti Sua Slide T V5-6 6C+
Classic Splitter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V-easy 3
Dancing All Night T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Desiderata T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a V5- 6C
Finger Fantasy T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gehe Jetzt T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Grief T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guardian T V7 7A+
Hatchet, The V6 7A
MRC Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
MRC Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Name Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Old Easy Arete (aka "Arettez Maintenant") S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Psychoshop T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b V7 7A+
Red Snapper, The T V10 7C+
Reverse Cowgirl V2 5+
Soggy Bottom T V5 6C
Straight Edge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Paul Piana and Strappo Hughes, during the Carter Administration
Page Views: 1,739 total · 15/month
Shared By: JNE on Jun 8, 2009
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is a fun little thin crack boulder problem. Start sitting down on the low tight hand, moving up to a bomber finger slot and then into the tips jams. Reach to the top of the boulder after the crack disappears. The crux comes moving through the tips jams.

Location

Park at the very eastern parking for MRC, as for Desiderata or anything over there. Walk down the Turtle Rock Trail for a short distance until you hit the fork right by the small pool with the little waterfall. This problem is on the large rock that borders the western side of the pool, and generally faces the parking lot. The base of this problem is only dry during low water.

Protection

A pad or two and a spotter is nice.

Photos

strappoh
Boulder, CO
strappoh   Boulder, CO
This little gem was part of Piana and Co. boulder route circuit during the Carter Administration. We always referred to it as "soggy bottom".

It's good to see you kids re-discovering things and assigning names for the sake of historical record. My driveway has thousands of pebbles...Would you like to name them as well? Jun 12, 2009
JNE
  V5
JNE  
  V5
If this is an old Piana problem, then cool. However, something tells me you are full of shit strappon. If this really is an old problem, then give me the info. and I will update it. If I thought you were anything but a troll, strappon, I would have changed it already. Jun 13, 2009
strappoh
Boulder, CO
strappoh   Boulder, CO
Jammer,

I have provided the information.

My name is not "strapon", it is Strappo.

It's too bad that talented young climbers feel the need to get defensive when their ego cannot have center pedestal. Jun 16, 2009
poundit14
Laramie, WY
poundit14   Laramie, WY
You mock jammer for naming the problem and sharing it with anyone that might be interested, yet didn't you do the same thing, Strappo, by calling it "Soggy Bottom?" You can hardly take offense to problems being redone and renamed when you chose not to share that information because it was below you, and yet you make a stink. I'm sure the pebbles in your driveway are lovely, but if you choose to take them for granted, so what if someone cares enough to name them. You hardly broached the conversation in a friendly or informative manner, its not about ego, its about being helpful. Jun 16, 2009
JNE
  V5
JNE  
  V5
Thank you poundit, I couldn't have said that better myself. Strappo, you got back what you put out, which was a bad attitude, so quit your bitching. I called you strappon because you were a dick. Afterward I heard from Tony Bubb that you were likely a real person and not some troll, and now I have heard enough that I believe it, so I will change the info accordingly. BTW, thank you for contributing. Maybe next time we can update the info on a boulder problem in a more civil way. Jun 16, 2009
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
So, to sum up, be a useless dick like masturjambate and awesomejacksonhole, or provide useful information in a non-confrontational manner like, well, everybody else on the site. Cool? Jun 16, 2009
strappoh
Boulder, CO
strappoh   Boulder, CO
Gentlemen,

I apologize for the way my original comment was received. I was only trying to give jammer and his friends a good-natured ribbing (isn't that what a strap-on does?) it's great to have young climbers excited about climbing...even bouldering.

As for the first ascent- I was shown this problem by Piana and (Ryan?)and "soggy bottom" became a reference label for future circuits.

Consider this my David Letterman apology if Palin is going to be referenced in the problem's name. Jun 19, 2009
What's with the personal attack? Strappo has a valid point, the Vedauwoo area on this site is becoming utterly polluted with a bunch of shit...like the Pearl, et al. and a bunch of "useless" beta. "Useless" includes: telling people that they can set up a toprope on master of sport, or that you that you will need X cam on the final move of Ed's, or other such invasions into one's independence and desire to confront the unknown. Jun 22, 2009
JNE
  V5
JNE  
  V5
Strappo, apology accepted. I was probably over sensitive so thanks for being a good humored reasonable guy.

Awesome or master or whoever made that assinine comment: worthless info is comments like everything you have contributed. There are people with different perspectives and then there are assholes and the purposefully ignorant. You definitely fall into the second category, whereas Scoggins, who you seem to be calling out, just provides a different perspective. Jun 22, 2009
R Sather
COLORADO
 
R Sather   COLORADO
 
I really like this problem, but maybe that is just because I was lucky enough to top it out that day.

We thought it was most obvious to start standing, because the positioning in the LZ was awkward enough already, but upon reading the beta description, not starting from a sit start could have made the problem easier. I'm not sure. I'll have to go back and try someday.

I'd give the problem a great (3 stars) rating for movement but maybe only a good (2 stars) rating for the landing. We had 3 plus pads, and a spotter felt confidence inspiring because of the potential to fall on the boulder behind you. You're basically climbing above a pit, and the rock on the climb is still very crumbly. It should clean up with more visits. Get on it!!! Sep 6, 2016

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