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Routes in Old Easy

Bear Flare, The T V6 7A
Biggest Lips in Rock 'n' Roll, The V3 6A
Biggest Tits in Country Music, The T V3 6A
Bombay Hooker V6 7A
Boneghazi V3 6A
Borg, The V12 8A+
Cheap Perfume V1 5
Cheap Perfume Direct V1 5
Cincinatti Sua Slide T V5-6 6C+
Classic Splitter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V-easy 3
Dancing All Night T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Desiderata T V5- 6C
Finger Fantasy T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gehe Jetzt T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Grief T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guardian T V7 7A+
Hatchet, The V6 7A
MRC Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
MRC Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Name Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Old Easy Arete (aka "Arettez Maintenant") S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Psychoshop T V7 7A+
Red Snapper, The T V10 7C+
Reverse Cowgirl V2 5+
Soggy Bottom T V5 6C
Straight Edge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 8,050 total, 39/month
Shared By: Skip Harper on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Found on the west face of Old Easy, 'MRC Direct' (#1 on topo) is one of the most striking lines encountered at Vedauwoo. While it is a true hand crack classic, it may be climbed less than one would expect.

Several cracks overlap and intersect witheach other, making it seem more comfusing than it really is. It is the most central, 2 pitch line with a belay station (B) midway, just under the prominent roof. The crux is turning the roof! After this, one moves up and gradually right to the second belay (on gear). To get to the rap anchors (XX), one climbs up and left (facing the rock) to the rounded top of the formation. Double ropes will get you down in one rap, but a single 60 M rope requires an intermediate stop at the 1st belay station under the roof.

Other variations: MRC Left (#2, 5.7) strikes out left from the first belay on 'Direct', traverses 25' along a ledge and ascends a prominent handcrack which widens to offwidth near the top. The top belay is on gear. The rap is the same as for 'Direct'. The Seam Variation (#3, 5.10a) starts midway up the first pitch of 'Direct' and is then continuous with 'Left'. Ralph Called (#4, 5.10b) is the left crack above the roof of 'Direct' which goes vertical and is continuous with a bolted face to the top rap anchors. Finger Trip Roof (5.10a) is a harder variant of the prominent big roof of 'Direct', taken by going up the right side of the roof, somewhat off line.

Two option exit pitches: Middle Exit (5.9) The Straight Edge (#5, 5.10a). See guidebook for details-take larger pro.

Optional beginning pitch: Arretz Maintenant (#6, 5.9). See guidebook for details.

Protection

Take all cams from '0' to #3 Camalot (#3 1/2 Friend) and a full set of wires. This route literally 'eats pro'.
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
good route for hot sunny mornings as still in the shade. IMHO the roof crux is pretty hard for 9. Moderate 9 leaders beware. But we already know this is Vedauwoo 9 right? Jul 11, 2009
BretWith1T
Laramie, Wyoming
 
BretWith1T   Laramie, Wyoming
 
We had a 70m rope and missed the ground by 25 feet from the top rap anchors. Unfortunately, those are the least moderate feet besides pulling the roof. This is truly a classic climb, either through the center exit or on the Straight Edge which I did years ago. Highly recommended. Sep 6, 2008
outdooreric
Bishop, CA
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
This can be done in one pitch (140') to the comfortable pillar at the base of Straight Edge. Aug 6, 2008
High quality area. We found the top slab to the rap anchors a wee bit frictiony with one bolt and some tasty exposure. Jul 7, 2004
I'm glad to see there has been some grade revision for Straight Edge (9+ in Heel/Toe), but 10a is still a pretty big sandbag. A long-sleeve shirt should be a key piece of gear for this variation, since the fist jams are nearly an arm-length back in the crack (for my hands anyway). Save a #4 friend for the belay... the belay does not take large nuts as stated in the guide. A 6' leap is required to get back down to the MRC rap anchors if you top out on Straight Edge. Aug 11, 2003
Straight Edge is a mini-classic, and by far the best finish, IMHO. Quite strenuous and somewhat of a sandbag at 10a though, I thought. Highly recommended in any case. Maybe bring an extra fist-sized piece or two. May 12, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Ralph Called is crumbling and not very fun at all. My advice is not to bother with that variation. Apr 30, 2002
Darrin Stein
Vancouver, WA
Darrin Stein   Vancouver, WA
I have a couple photos of this route, but why bother...just look at Anonymous's and you'll get the facts.

This is a great line and is a must do when visiting. Sold jams and placements make for a great few hours here. Dec 7, 2001