Avg: 3.4 from 82 votes
Routes in Old Easy
|Bear Flare, The T V6 7A|
|Biggest Lips in Rock 'n' Roll, The V3 6A|
|Biggest Tits in Country Music, The T V3 6A|
|Bombay Hooker V6 7A|
|Boneghazi V3 6A|
|Borg, The V12 8A+|
|Cheap Perfume V1 5|
|Cheap Perfume Direct V1 5|
|Cincinatti Sua Slide T V5-6 6C+|
|Classic Splitter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V-easy 3|
|Dancing All Night T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a|
|Desiderata T V5- 6C|
|Finger Fantasy T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Gehe Jetzt T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Golden Grief T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Guardian T V7 7A+|
|Hatchet, The V6 7A|
|MRC Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|MRC Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|No Name Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Old Easy Arete (aka "Arettez Maintenant") S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Psychoshop T V7 7A+|
|Red Snapper, The T V10 7C+|
|Reverse Cowgirl V2 5+|
|Soggy Bottom T V5 6C|
|Straight Edge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||8,050 total, 39/month|
|Shared By:||Skip Harper on Dec 31, 2000|
|Admins:||Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki|
DescriptionFound on the west face of Old Easy, 'MRC Direct' (#1 on topo) is one of the most striking lines encountered at Vedauwoo. While it is a true hand crack classic, it may be climbed less than one would expect.
Several cracks overlap and intersect witheach other, making it seem more comfusing than it really is. It is the most central, 2 pitch line with a belay station (B) midway, just under the prominent roof. The crux is turning the roof! After this, one moves up and gradually right to the second belay (on gear). To get to the rap anchors (XX), one climbs up and left (facing the rock) to the rounded top of the formation. Double ropes will get you down in one rap, but a single 60 M rope requires an intermediate stop at the 1st belay station under the roof.
Other variations: MRC Left (#2, 5.7) strikes out left from the first belay on 'Direct', traverses 25' along a ledge and ascends a prominent handcrack which widens to offwidth near the top. The top belay is on gear. The rap is the same as for 'Direct'. The Seam Variation (#3, 5.10a) starts midway up the first pitch of 'Direct' and is then continuous with 'Left'. Ralph Called (#4, 5.10b) is the left crack above the roof of 'Direct' which goes vertical and is continuous with a bolted face to the top rap anchors. Finger Trip Roof (5.10a) is a harder variant of the prominent big roof of 'Direct', taken by going up the right side of the roof, somewhat off line.
Two option exit pitches: Middle Exit (5.9) The Straight Edge (#5, 5.10a). See guidebook for details-take larger pro.
Optional beginning pitch: Arretz Maintenant (#6, 5.9). See guidebook for details.