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Routes in Old Easy

Bear Flare, The T V6 7A
Biggest Lips in Rock 'n' Roll, The V3 6A
Biggest Tits in Country Music, The T V3 6A
Bombay Hooker V6 7A
Boneghazi V3 6A
Borg, The V12 8A+
Cheap Perfume V1 5
Cheap Perfume Direct V1 5
Cincinatti Sua Slide T V5-6 6C+
Classic Splitter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V-easy 3
Dancing All Night T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Desiderata T V5- 6C
Finger Fantasy T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gehe Jetzt T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Grief T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guardian T V7 7A+
Hatchet, The V6 7A
MRC Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
MRC Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Name Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Old Easy Arete (aka "Arettez Maintenant") S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Psychoshop T V7 7A+
Red Snapper, The T V10 7C+
Reverse Cowgirl V2 5+
Soggy Bottom T V5 6C
Straight Edge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Boulder
FA: Bob Scarpelli
Page Views: 15,917 total, 82/month
Shared By: Dave Chenault on Nov 28, 2001
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

I'm not sure where to put this one. This is an awesome roof crack boulder problem.

TBTICM is under a low roof on the back side, where that roof meets a vertical wall at its right edge. Slide all the way back. The roof crack is a hand crack at the very start, then pinches down to fingers/off-fingers for most of its length. The best way to do this section is by power underclinging, but since the crack diagonals to the left here, this isn't as bad as it could be, especially since the feet are less than ideal in a few spots. Near the lip, it opens up to good hands. To finish, there are two options: climb the crack over the lip and stand up, or climb to the big knob at the lip, bust a kick-through out left into the roof crack formed by a VW-sized boulder leaning against the main boulder, pull through, and top out on knobs and a flared hand jam. The latter option is harder and very much the better of the two. This is a great, visionary Scarpelli first and an excellent place to practice roof crack climbing and Leavittation.

Protection

Never more than 4 feet off the deck. It helps to have a spotter to bail you out when your feet get stuck in the bomber heel-toes on the kick-through move.

Location

Eds. This is located near the Nautilus & Old Easy. Due to the nature of the database, we need to have someone submit the "crag" or "boulder" to move the route to the appropriate location.

To find it, hike up to saddle at the north end of the Nautilus. Look west over to the huge slab, right (ie across the street) of and even with the Coke Bottle/etc complex. Notice the big hat/hogie roll shaped boulder about halfway up the slab complex. TBTICM is on the back side of this. Now drive over there and hike up. It may take some wandering around, but you'll find the boulder in question. Of all the huge rocks up there, it is the biggest.

Photos

Bjorn
Leadvegas, CO
Bjorn   Leadvegas, CO
I think I got hantavirus here. Nov 22, 2010
JNE
  V3+
JNE  
  V3+
Description is pretty good, but here are a few more details. The boulder described is the biggest bastard on the south part of Old Easy, about half way up, to the east and around the corner from MRC. It is distinguished by a leaning fissure that splits it from top to bottom, and a horizontal fissure that more or less splits it in two, both very wide distinct fissures. It could look like a hoagie roll or I like to think it looks like a hamburger bun sliced at an angle from top to bottom. This boulder is probably easily sixty feet tall, it's friggin' huge, it's the REALLY, REALLY, big one with the above described fissures, it should stick out from all the other blobs over there. Bob Scarpelli rated this thing V3+ I believe, and it is an absolute classic. I've heard it called as hard as V5. Start ALL the way in the back of the roof, and definitely kick through to finish. Sweet. Named after Dolly Parton I would imagine. Pretty tricky to get to, some involved scrambling required by all ways I have gone. Another roof crack resides to the left of it a little ways, and is the back end of the leaning fissure. This is supposedly called "The Biggest Lips in Rock n Roll" Start this one as far back as you can without dragging your butt on the ground. Flared hands crux pulling the lip, have to downclimb a short dihedral to get off. Apr 12, 2006
This is the best boulder problem in Vedauwoo, I won't add anymore beta but it has to be done with the kick through or you just didn't finish. The directions are kind of vague. It is near (but not easily approached from) Finger Fantasy or Buttox. That is the general area. Best advice, go with someone who has been there before. Sep 11, 2002