Type: Trad, Boulder
FA: Bob Scarpelli
Page Views: 17,902 total · 79/month
Shared By: Dave Chenault on Nov 28, 2001
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

I'm not sure where to put this one. This is an awesome roof crack boulder problem.

TBTICM is under a low roof on the back side, where that roof meets a vertical wall at its right edge. Slide all the way back. The roof crack is a hand crack at the very start, then pinches down to fingers/off-fingers for most of its length. The best way to do this section is by power underclinging, but since the crack diagonals to the left here, this isn't as bad as it could be, especially since the feet are less than ideal in a few spots. Near the lip, it opens up to good hands. To finish, there are two options: climb the crack over the lip and stand up, or climb to the big knob at the lip, bust a kick-through out left into the roof crack formed by a VW-sized boulder leaning against the main boulder, pull through, and top out on knobs and a flared hand jam. The latter option is harder and very much the better of the two. This is a great, visionary Scarpelli first and an excellent place to practice roof crack climbing and Leavittation.

Protection

Never more than 4 feet off the deck. It helps to have a spotter to bail you out when your feet get stuck in the bomber heel-toes on the kick-through move.

Location

Eds. This is located near the Nautilus & Old Easy. Due to the nature of the database, we need to have someone submit the "crag" or "boulder" to move the route to the appropriate location.

To find it, hike up to saddle at the north end of the Nautilus. Look west over to the huge slab, right (ie across the street) of and even with the Coke Bottle/etc complex. Notice the big hat/hogie roll shaped boulder about halfway up the slab complex. TBTICM is on the back side of this. Now drive over there and hike up. It may take some wandering around, but you'll find the boulder in question. Of all the huge rocks up there, it is the biggest.

Photos