Type: Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches
FA: Gary Pousch and Jeb Schenck, 1968
Page Views: 106 total · 38/month
Shared By: Sam Lawrence on Jul 25, 2021
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Bad Bolt Submission Form Details

Description

Dire Pitch is a good, varied climb. Start with some easy chimneying, occasionally interspersed with short sections of OW and hand cracks. Belay at a rap station just below a steep headwall covered in bird poop. Climb around a chockstone above the headwall on the left, passing an ancient bolt. (I climbed the headwall, which is about 20 feet, hand crack on the right, fist to offwidth on the right, and good stemming against walls on either side. This is good, well-protected climbing, but I could not squeeze around the chockstone at the top, even after removing helmet, so downclimbed and proceeded the correct way. Maybe a child could fit?)

It is easy climbing after that, with a quick, fun 7-7+ hand crack at the top.

Descent: we walked off to right/back, eventually making our way back to our bags. It was quite tricky to find the path of least resistance, especially near the top. You could also rap off as for MRC, as you top out at the straight edge anchors, but that is not efficient with four rappels dropping you at the base of the face climb arete. It may be possible to rap down to the top of P1 and rap down to bags on P1 anchor, but the first rappel looks like it goes through rope eating crack, so we didn't attempt that.

Location

Both Kelman and Orenczak say it is in a left-facing corner, but that beta confused me, as it is more right-facing considering the direction of the crag, which both of their topos indicate. This is right of No Name Chimney and left of Golden Grief. Find the right-facing dihedral right behind and to the right of no name chimney, and start in the chimney facing right in the back.

Protection

Rap off of a cordalette on P1 and straight edge bolts on the top/straight edge summit. I took through a #5, and Big bros. I placed the #5 and 3 BB but probably could have left both - there are lots of small opportunities to protect. Also there are stopper and tricam possibilities.

Photos