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Routes in Old Easy

Bear Flare, The T V6 7A
Biggest Lips in Rock 'n' Roll, The V3 6A
Biggest Tits in Country Music, The T V3 6A
Bombay Hooker V6 7A
Boneghazi V3 6A
Borg, The V12 8A+
Cheap Perfume V1 5
Cheap Perfume Direct V1 5
Cincinatti Sua Slide T V5-6 6C+
Classic Splitter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V-easy 3
Dancing All Night T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Desiderata T V5- 6C
Finger Fantasy T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gehe Jetzt T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Grief T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guardian T V7 7A+
Hatchet, The V6 7A
MRC Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
MRC Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Name Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Old Easy Arete (aka "Arettez Maintenant") S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Psychoshop T V7 7A+
Red Snapper, The T V10 7C+
Reverse Cowgirl V2 5+
Soggy Bottom T V5 6C
Straight Edge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Andy Reather
Page Views: 2,097 total, 18/month
Shared By: JNE on Jan 28, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This a fantastic crack problem. It is also a sloper problem. Andy did the problem by pulling on the traversing flared crack like a rail, and the concensus grade for that method is soft V12. You can also primarily crack climb it, only using a couple of face holds, and the grade given reflects my opinion on how hard it is to do it that way. People who face climb it don't all think that it is a quality problem, but I think it is a fantastic crack problem if you are in to that sort of thing. Either way you climb it, it is very representative of Vedauwoo style climbing. A quality find on Andy's part.

Location

This problem is not actually on Old Easy, but park in the parking lot as for Desiderata. Get on the turtle rock trail and follow it as it bends northeast around the very base of old Easy. You will pass a couple of really cool huge boulders sitting right in the middle of the trail, one of which has a huge nose sticking off it (some cool face problems). A ways past these boulders, right about when you get to where the forest is thick on both sides of the trail you will see a small pile of rocks on the right, which will be the first real rocks you see once you are past the two big boulders. Walk down into the boulders on the northeast downhill side of the pile and look around for this distinct flared right traversing crack, which faces uphill.

Protection

A couple pads.

Photos

JNE
 
JNE  
 
Old scrappy video of a flared hands ascent: youtube.com/watch?v=kx4MlFY… Aug 15, 2014
molony
 
molony  
 
Ok so, in the guidebook it says to walk past 2 dead cut trees on the right of the trail. This doesn't mean the tree stumps, but rather the two trees that were in fact cut down and are laying on the right side of the trail. Aug 7, 2008