Type: Trad, Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Andy Reather
Page Views: 2,232 total · 17/month
Shared By: JNE on Jan 28, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This a fantastic crack problem. It is also a sloper problem. Andy did the problem by pulling on the traversing flared crack like a rail, and the concensus grade for that method is soft V12. You can also primarily crack climb it, only using a couple of face holds, and the grade given reflects my opinion on how hard it is to do it that way. People who face climb it don't all think that it is a quality problem, but I think it is a fantastic crack problem if you are in to that sort of thing. Either way you climb it, it is very representative of Vedauwoo style climbing. A quality find on Andy's part.

Location

This problem is not actually on Old Easy, but park in the parking lot as for Desiderata. Get on the turtle rock trail and follow it as it bends northeast around the very base of old Easy. You will pass a couple of really cool huge boulders sitting right in the middle of the trail, one of which has a huge nose sticking off it (some cool face problems). A ways past these boulders, right about when you get to where the forest is thick on both sides of the trail you will see a small pile of rocks on the right, which will be the first real rocks you see once you are past the two big boulders. Walk down into the boulders on the northeast downhill side of the pile and look around for this distinct flared right traversing crack, which faces uphill.

Protection

A couple pads.

Photos

molony
 
molony  
 
Ok so, in the guidebook it says to walk past 2 dead cut trees on the right of the trail. This doesn't mean the tree stumps, but rather the two trees that were in fact cut down and are laying on the right side of the trail. Aug 7, 2008
JNE
  V10
JNE  
  V10
Old scrappy video of a flared hands ascent: youtube.com/watch?v=kx4MlFY… Aug 15, 2014