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Routes in Old Easy

Bear Flare, The T V6 7A
Biggest Lips in Rock 'n' Roll, The V3 6A
Biggest Tits in Country Music, The T V3 6A
Bombay Hooker V6 7A
Boneghazi V3 6A
Borg, The V12 8A+
Cheap Perfume V1 5
Cheap Perfume Direct V1 5
Cincinatti Sua Slide T V5-6 6C+
Classic Splitter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V-easy 3
Dancing All Night T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Desiderata T V5- 6C
Finger Fantasy T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gehe Jetzt T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Grief T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guardian T V7 7A+
Hatchet, The V6 7A
MRC Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
MRC Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Name Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Old Easy Arete (aka "Arettez Maintenant") S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Psychoshop T V7 7A+
Red Snapper, The T V10 7C+
Reverse Cowgirl V2 5+
Soggy Bottom T V5 6C
Straight Edge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Boulder, 13 ft
FA: Justin Edl, 2008
Page Views: 1,473 total, 13/month
Shared By: JNE on May 25, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is a very fun moving problem! Sit start on an ok, tight, flared right hand and a decent left hand sloper on the low cobble. Work your way up the ever thinning crack, using all available features. Finish on the cobbles after the crack peters out. This thing provides an excellent combination of technical jamming with interesting footwork.

Location

Drive around Old Easy as if going to Desiderata, and when the road forks (one fork to a parking lot with a bathroom and information sign, the other fork goes left and uphill) take the left fork and park in the first pullout on the left. This crack is in the obvious cluster of boulders a couple hundred feet away up toward Old Easy, and is visible from the road.

Protection

A pad.

Photos

bart cubrich 1  
  V7
There is a cool variation that Evan M. showed me where you start with you left foot on the cobble and do a kneebar. It might be a bit easier than V7, since you avoid the strenuous opening moves, but it feels cool. May 19, 2016
JNE
 
JNE  
 
Thanks Molony. You should go finish it up. I think the movement on this is just plain cool. Heel hooks, bicycles, deadpoints, and cool static moves, and it all flows together like a gym problem. Highly recommended. Jul 29, 2008
molony  
Justin, that chalk is mine. I saw this thing a while back and just dicked around on it. Didn't climb it by any stretch of the imagination. Nice send though. Jul 29, 2008
JNE
 
JNE  
 
I saw some chalk about halfway up, so this may have been done before. I did knock a fair bit of exfoliate flakes out of the crucial tips jams in the upper section. If you did it, let me know and I will update appropriately.

There is a bit of exfoliation around the crack right now, but that will go away after a couple more ascents. May 25, 2008