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Routes in Old Easy

Bear Flare, The T V6 7A
Biggest Lips in Rock 'n' Roll, The V3 6A
Biggest Tits in Country Music, The T V3 6A
Bombay Hooker V6 7A
Boneghazi V3 6A
Borg, The V12 8A+
Cheap Perfume V1 5
Cheap Perfume Direct V1 5
Cincinatti Sua Slide T V5-6 6C+
Classic Splitter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V-easy 3
Dancing All Night T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Desiderata T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a V5- 6C
Finger Fantasy T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gehe Jetzt T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Grief T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guardian T V7 7A+
Hatchet, The V6 7A
MRC Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
MRC Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Name Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Old Easy Arete (aka "Arettez Maintenant") S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Psychoshop T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b V7 7A+
Red Snapper, The T V10 7C+
Reverse Cowgirl V2 5+
Soggy Bottom T V5 6C
Straight Edge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Trad, Boulder, 13 ft
FA: Several in the last decade
Page Views: 3,111 total · 22/month
Shared By: johnh on Jun 2, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Find Desiderata and walk Southbound along the base of the Old Easy formation for less than 100 yards. You will encounter a large pine tree next to a prominent alcove. This southeast facing crack overhangs about thirty degrees, and can be done from a stand using perfect hands, or done for full value by sit starting on fingers/tight hands.

Protection

A pad or two, along with a spotter is nice. The landing is flat, but hard.

Photos

JNE
  5.11 V2
JNE  
  5.11 V2
Scarpelli was the first one to find and do this one, probably more than a decade ago. This is a very pretty and worthwhile line. Jun 4, 2007
molony
  5.11 V2
molony  
  5.11 V2
Remarkable, a little sharp, but that's Vedauwoo. I have to say that if you have larger hands the stand start is really tight hands, and down low sitting is more like flared, off-fingers. From the stand or the sit, this is a fun crack. Not the absolute best, but close. Aug 4, 2009

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