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Routes in Old Easy

Bear Flare, The T V6 7A
Biggest Lips in Rock 'n' Roll, The V3 6A
Biggest Tits in Country Music, The T V3 6A
Bombay Hooker V6 7A
Boneghazi V3 6A
Borg, The V12 8A+
Cheap Perfume V1 5
Cheap Perfume Direct V1 5
Cincinatti Sua Slide T V5-6 6C+
Classic Splitter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V-easy 3
Dancing All Night T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Desiderata T V5- 6C
Finger Fantasy T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gehe Jetzt T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Grief T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guardian T V7 7A+
Hatchet, The V6 7A
MRC Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
MRC Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Name Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Old Easy Arete (aka "Arettez Maintenant") S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Psychoshop T V7 7A+
Red Snapper, The T V10 7C+
Reverse Cowgirl V2 5+
Soggy Bottom T V5 6C
Straight Edge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Boulder, 13 ft
FA: Several in the last decade
Page Views: 2,948 total, 23/month
Shared By: johnh on Jun 2, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Find Desiderata and walk Southbound along the base of the Old Easy formation for less than 100 yards. You will encounter a large pine tree next to a prominent alcove. This southeast facing crack overhangs about thirty degrees, and can be done from a stand using perfect hands, or done for full value by sit starting on fingers/tight hands.

Protection

A pad or two, along with a spotter is nice. The landing is flat, but hard.

Photos

molony
  5.11 V2
molony  
  5.11 V2
Remarkable, a little sharp, but that's Vedauwoo. I have to say that if you have larger hands the stand start is really tight hands, and down low sitting is more like flared, off-fingers. From the stand or the sit, this is a fun crack. Not the absolute best, but close. Aug 4, 2009
JNE
  5.11 V2
JNE  
  5.11 V2
Scarpelli was the first one to find and do this one, probably more than a decade ago. This is a very pretty and worthwhile line. Jun 4, 2007