Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Nat's Three Star Roof

After Shock T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Around the World V0-1 4+
City Slicker V3 6A
Classic V3 6A
Deniro S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Green Room, The V3 6A R
Landslide T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Leavitation 69 V7 7A+
Nat's Three Star Roof T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c V4 6B
Packing the 9 aka Unnamed V3 Crack V3 6A
Roll Bones T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Shell Shock T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spin to Win T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V3 6A
Stealin M&Ms S V4- 6B
Tapeworm Roof V7 7A+
Unnamed Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b V-easy 3
Wormhole, The T V5 6C
Type: Trad, Boulder, 40 ft
FA: Bob Scarpelli
Page Views: 4,507 total, 35/month
Shared By: JNE on Jun 6, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


38 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is probably Vedauwoo's most well-known and classic roof crack boulder problem.

Crawl deep into the cave, all the way to the very first hand jam about twenty feet back, and jam out to and over the lip encountering a tricky pod or two along the way. To top out, follow the crack to the top (recommended but a bit of a pain to get down) or traverse left or jump down after the lip.

A cool extention starts all the way in the back of the roof where the crack is a gaping chimney, and climbs all the way out.

Location

This is the fissure that splits the main rock formation in two. It faces to the south, toward I-80.

Protection

A pad or two. Most of the roof is too low for a pad, but you might want one at the lip.

Photos

Have heard others say they thought the lip moves good training for the last overhang of Friday the 13th. I think these moves are actually harder, and I use a heel hook here, not on Friday's. If you can crank through the lip on Nat's, you have a great shot at cruisin' all of Friday's. Nov 4, 2011
GeorgeS  
I did this route in spring 1987. At the time I believed it to be a first ascent. I did some cleaning at the lip. I called it "Tunnel Vision" after the vision one gets of the blue Wyoming sky through the final pod before the lip.

I was in grad school at the time at CU Boulder and had been coming to V for several years to do the standard routes. The area of the party boulder was our regular camping spot. Having most of my climbing partners move on or away, I started to concentrate more on bouldering and made a few trip to V by myself to explore. The previous fall, I had cleaned and completed "The Crap Artist" which I named "Lattice Action". I remember stumbling on the tunnel and crack with a genuine thrill at the quality. Jul 24, 2011
Sean Wolf
Denver, CO
Sean Wolf   Denver, CO
We were having a hell of a time reaching past the last pod. We tried some bat hang beta but ended up finding a good fist jam way up in there instead. Aug 22, 2009
Will S
Joshua Tree
  5.11 V3
Will S   Joshua Tree
  5.11 V3
Just reach between the good jams, no need for leading with feet, bat hanging, or anything else unusual. Crux is turning the lip. Stout for the guidebook rating (.11a) and in an area with other nice problems. Great, great problem. Aug 20, 2007
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
Any time I see somebody passing the final pod (which is the only one that the bat hang is really necessary for), that's the beta I've seen used. Jun 10, 2007
Nice beta - I didn't think of that. Jun 8, 2007
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
You have to switch directions several times to get through the pods. That is, you have to lead into certain pods with your feet, as opposed to your hands, then score heel-toe jams and swing your body over so you can get to the next good hand jam. But that's only for one pod. The rest you should be able to reach past. Unless you're like three feet tall. This thing is surprisingly sequential for what it is. Jun 7, 2007
Ungodly difficult getting through those pods. Great problem - any advice on techniques for the offwidth pods? I never did figure it out.

The rating is consistent with the crack/boulder ratings in Vedauwoo, but this problem is definitely harder than a typical V5 you find in a Front Range climbing gym! Jun 7, 2007