Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: Patrick MacLane
Page Views: 183 total · 5/month
Shared By: Pat Mac on Dec 8, 2015
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Access Issue: Portions of the approach and cliffs of this area are on private land. Details

Description

Tufa climbing to fun easier 5.10 climbing with a crux at the top.
Climb 3 bolts to start getting into the tufas. Pull a few moves to get where the Tufa crux is. Make a large move through a blank section to a popcorn sloper. Mantle the lip and traverse right. Then head up the cool terrain of easier climbing. Clip the last bolt and prepare for the final crux section. Cross over to a blocky hold, set up and make a big move to an ok hold a big shoulder move then the jug lip just above the chains.

Location

First route to the right of Flying Cocksman.

Protection

19 Bolts. There are two leaver chain draws for the traverse. Be sure to back clean at least one. There is a leaver biner for the 4th bolt so that when you are cleaning it you don't lower into the Saguaro.

Photos

Justin Turner
Cave Creek, AZ
 
Justin Turner   Cave Creek, AZ
 
Probably solid 12a given the easy section in the middle. Definitely wanders right but a cool route nonetheless. 70m rope a must.
  • For cleaning you'll want to feed the rope left to right through the anchor biners, lowering the rope down to the belayer. Tie in on the left side and have your belayer lower you, cleaning draws as you work your way left. Clip into both chain draws so you lower straight down the first section of the route, remembering to clip into the leaver biner so you don't hit the cactus.
Dec 14, 2015
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
Interesting route, stiff 12a or easy 12b. A fun wandering climb up great stone, it is too bad that cleaning is such a pain. Maybe consider moving the first chain down a bolt to protect the crux, and make it more useful during cleaning. I skipped the first chain (and a bunch of other bolts to help ropedrag) but it meant getting back to it while cleaning would be a pain. Plan to take a lot of slings and backclean a lot to keep rope drag down. Jan 4, 2016