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Routes in Tufa City

Almighty, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Black Sunshine S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Calcite Cruiser S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Canned Heat S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Couples Fear Factor S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dead Sea S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Flying Cocksman S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fred's Route S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Grip It And Rip It S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ground Affects S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
John's Meat Market (aka: Fred's Line) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kryptic Curtain S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
La Linea Negra S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Micro Burst S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Millenium Meltdown S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Natural, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Rain Day S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Renegade S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sacrificial Pig S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Short and Stiff S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sidewinder S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Solar Delirium S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Spicy Crispy S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sun Burst S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
TuFa king $:@%*~! S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Tufa Tussle S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tufa Yard Dash S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tufa the Soul S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Tufa-one S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tufasize Me S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Via Ferrari S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Way 'Stead S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: Patrick MacLane
Page Views: 158 total · 6/month
Shared By: Pat Mac on Dec 8, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Portions of the approach and cliffs of this area are on private land. Details

Description

Tufa climbing to fun easier 5.10 climbing with a crux at the top.
Climb 3 bolts to start getting into the tufas. Pull a few moves to get where the Tufa crux is. Make a large move through a blank section to a popcorn sloper. Mantle the lip and traverse right. Then head up the cool terrain of easier climbing. Clip the last bolt and prepare for the final crux section. Cross over to a blocky hold, set up and make a big move to an ok hold a big shoulder move then the jug lip just above the chains.

Location

First route to the right of Flying Cocksman.

Protection

19 Bolts. There are two leaver chain draws for the traverse. Be sure to back clean at least one. There is a leaver biner for the 4th bolt so that when you are cleaning it you don't lower into the Saguaro.

Photos

Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
Interesting route, stiff 12a or easy 12b. A fun wandering climb up great stone, it is too bad that cleaning is such a pain. Maybe consider moving the first chain down a bolt to protect the crux, and make it more useful during cleaning. I skipped the first chain (and a bunch of other bolts to help ropedrag) but it meant getting back to it while cleaning would be a pain. Plan to take a lot of slings and backclean a lot to keep rope drag down. Jan 4, 2016
Justin Turner
Cave Creek, AZ
 
Justin Turner   Cave Creek, AZ
 
Probably solid 12a given the easy section in the middle. Definitely wanders right but a cool route nonetheless. 70m rope a must.
  • For cleaning you'll want to feed the rope left to right through the anchor biners, lowering the rope down to the belayer. Tie in on the left side and have your belayer lower you, cleaning draws as you work your way left. Clip into both chain draws so you lower straight down the first section of the route, remembering to clip into the leaver biner so you don't hit the cactus.
Dec 14, 2015