Type: Sport
FA: Mike Vaughn, Lucas Anaya
Page Views: 2,190 total · 30/month
Shared By: Red on Feb 25, 2013
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Portions of the approach and cliffs of this area are on private land. Details

Description

Steep start with a large hueco-like hole, pull the first roof onto paralleling tufa's up to a second smaller roof. Fun climbing on great rock leads to a higher pump crux followed by a jug haul finish to the anchors.

A 60 meter rope is more than enough to climb this route and lower back to the Balcony(where the route starts). A 70 meter rope will reach from the balcony to the anchors and all the way to the ground. 70m is NOT long enough for both ends to reach the ground from the anchor. When using a 60 meter rope make sure to only lower the climber to the balcony and not the ground.

Location

The first and currently the only route up on the Tufa Balcony. Solar Delirium is located directly above Spicy Crispy. The Balcony spans roughly from above La Linea Negra to above Flying Cocksman. You can access the balcony by climbing and topping out any of the eight routes located under it. Except for Short and Stiff, it's too short. The easiest route would probably be Rain Day followed by Couples Fear Factor. There is a Via Ferrata along the balcony for safety and a two bolt anchor in the middle to belay up a second and for repelling.

Protection

Bolts

Photos

Nice work opening up this part of the Tufa's Luke! Feb 26, 2013
Nice Luke! Feb 26, 2013
Red
Tacoma, Toyota
  5.12c/d
Red   Tacoma, Toyota
  5.12c/d
Thanks guys. Feb 27, 2013