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Routes in Tufa City

Almighty, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Black Sunshine S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Calcite Cruiser S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Canned Heat S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Couples Fear Factor S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dead Sea S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Flying Cocksman S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fred's Route S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Grip It And Rip It S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ground Affects S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
John's Meat Market (aka: Fred's Line) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kryptic Curtain S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
La Linea Negra S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Micro Burst S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Millenium Meltdown S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Natural, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Rain Day S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Renegade S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sacrificial Pig S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Short and Stiff S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sidewinder S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Solar Delirium S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Spicy Crispy S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sun Burst S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
TuFa king $:@%*~! S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Tufa Tussle S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tufa Yard Dash S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tufa the Soul S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Tufa-one S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tufasize Me S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Via Ferrari S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Way 'Stead S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown, EB Kevin
Page Views: 6,969 total, 70/month
Shared By: Red on Oct 23, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Portions of the approach and cliffs of this area are on private land. Details

Description

  • DO NOT CLIMB ON TUFAS AFTER HEAVY RAINS OR IF THE WALL APPEARS WET! Tufas are very fragile and break really easily when wet. Don't ruin climbs for everyone else!*

The largest single climbable tufa at the Homestead. Climb up HUGE tufa / face to inverted buckets to anchors. Amazing climb!

Location

This route is located at the far right side of Tufa City just prior to Marley Wall. Base of the climb is 20 feet up the wall, fixed rope access. It is the second of the four routes (from left to right) at this belay station.

Protection

13 Bolts. Biners at anchors.
Yueyang Meng
Stevens Point, Wisconsin
Yueyang Meng   Stevens Point, Wisconsin
Best 11 I ever climb! Jan 21, 2017
Red
Tacoma, Toyota
 
Red   Tacoma, Toyota
 
It was nice of someone to leave a fixed draw on the first bolt of this climb, however it is far too short and will not last long. It's already weathered and needs to be replaced with cable or chain. I recommend using an alpine draw or standard length sling for the first bolt to reduce rope drag on the tufas between the first and second bolts.

Or to avoid the bees a bit, you can clip the first bolt of Tufa One with a long draw and very easily climb into TYD. Jan 9, 2017
Red
Tacoma, Toyota
 
Red   Tacoma, Toyota
 
Most people do not belay from the ledge that Aaron Miller is referring to, but rather 30 feel below at the base of the cliff and trail. Also, that hive has been there longer that TYD has been bolted. Its level of activeness has varied over the years. This is only one of many active hives in the canyon. Always use caution when climbing in bee country. Jan 9, 2017
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
Heads up!!! There was a bee hive in the big pocket off the belay ledge that is needed to get to the first bolt. And because it requires a stick clip to get to the first fixed draw (crusty sun-bleached nylon anyhow), its not safely climbable unless you want to do some convoluted traverse in from the first bolt of the route to the right. The moves are possible without using the beehive pocket, but not safe! Dec 21, 2016
Rich Strang
Santa Fe, NM
  5.11c
Rich Strang   Santa Fe, NM
  5.11c
+1 to above
Possibly the best 5.11 I've ever done!!!! Jan 1, 2014
One of the best bolted elevens in the country. I smiled the whole time I was climbing this thing Jan 25, 2013
There are at least 3 and maybe 5 no hands rests on this route. If you think it is hard or pumpy you are not using the rests. Dec 23, 2012
Joseph M.
Tucson, AZ
  5.11c
Joseph M.   Tucson, AZ
  5.11c
Awesome route through amazing features! Glad to have gotten the on-sight and look forward to doing this route every time I am at the Homestead!! Apr 17, 2012
jeffrey c gibson
pheonix az
jeffrey c gibson   pheonix az
Truly a super classic!! The juice is worth the squeeze, and spot on for the grade. Feb 1, 2012
K-Tanz
Phoenix, AZ
  5.11c/d
K-Tanz   Phoenix, AZ
  5.11c/d
Definitely the most uniquely featured climb I have ever been on. Maybe my favorite route in AZ. 40-50 feet of amazing tufa pulling to a no hands rest into an absolute overhung bucket-fest. Definitely pumpy. Blew off the move to the finishing mantle a bunch of times from the pump. Highly recommended! Mar 7, 2011
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.11b
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.11b
This has got to be one of the best lines in Southern Arizona. Fantastic! Jan 29, 2011
RyanJames
  5.11c/d
RyanJames  
  5.11c/d
Certainly one of the best routes at the Stead!

One of the best bolted 5.11's in America? Quite possibly. Jan 2, 2011
Joel Unema
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11+
Joel Unema   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11+
This route is the absolute best tufa jug haul at the stead. Thought it was Freds line, but I guess that is to the right. Climb it! Jan 19, 2010
David Stephens
Superior AZ
 
David Stephens   Superior AZ
 
This was the first time scene Kevin bolted the line (Jan 07) that we were able to climb on it Dry...if there could only be one 4 star route at the Stead this would be it! Jan 2, 2010
BenClimbing
  5.11c
BenClimbing  
  5.11c
Cool. Strange series of mistakes led to these lines getting confused but it's good that it's all straightened out now. Great route. Dec 29, 2009
Red
Tacoma, Toyota
 
Red   Tacoma, Toyota
 
Edit: John's Meat Market is two routes to the right. This route is called Tufa Yard Dash. TYD was bolted by Kevin ? from Oregon. I figured this out when we ran into Kevin on our way out / his way in to the Stead on 12-20-09. Dec 29, 2009
BenClimbing
  5.11c
BenClimbing  
  5.11c
BTW, the route is about 70' from the belay ledge and 80' to the ground. Dec 11, 2009
BenClimbing
  5.11c
BenClimbing  
  5.11c
I checked in with Fred and learned that he named this route "John's Meat Market". Dec 10, 2009
BenClimbing
  5.11c
BenClimbing  
  5.11c
This is an indescribably incredible route and the bolt placements are very nicely done. Just to reiterate though, tufas that protrude farther from the wall than their own width are extremely vulnerable to breaking if lateral force is applied to them. Please try to tread softly on this route and stay off anytime you notice the wall is seeping and/or shortly after rainfall. Don't be responsible for this route being tragically ruined! Thanx. Dec 7, 2009