Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Mike Vaughn
Page Views: 3,620 total · 33/month
Shared By: Red on Feb 25, 2010
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Access Issue: Portions of the approach and cliffs of this area are on private land. Details

Description

Good tufa climbing leads you up to a huge rest just before the line becomes inverted and the crux. From here it is all business. Pull this hard crux move and continue through the still challenging head wall to the anchors.

Greg Varela bolted this line.

Location

This route is located at the far right side of Tufa City just prior to Marley Wall. Base of the climb is 20 feet up the wall, fixed rope access. Leftmost route of the four at this belay station.

Protection

bolts

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5 Comments

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Newest Oldest Best Beta
RyanJames
5.13c
RyanJames  
5.13c
Great tufa climbing (5.11+) lead to a great rest under a roof. The moves getting over the roof are FOR REAL HARD! It felt like two V6's in a row. Then its about 20 feet of 5.12 to the anchors. The move getting to the hold to clip the anchors is AWESOME! I definitely logged some air time on that one.

I can't wait to go back and finish this one. Jun 3, 2010
Pat Mac
Salt Lake City
  5.13b/c
Pat Mac   Salt Lake City
  5.13b/c
  • *** AS OF 11/06/11 I LEFT TWO DRAWS AT THE TOP OF THE ROUTE. 2nd/3rd bolt to the anchors and are not to be considered booty. I will be back for them next weekend.****


WOW WOW WOW. Ok just go bit by the project bug again. This is what I like to refer to as a full value climb. So as Ryan said before it's about 11+ (cough cough) more like 12- but anyways leads to a HUGE hueco roof with a full recovery rest before the business. The Roof is the CRUX of the route and should not be taken lightly. Boulder moves lead to flat ledge to clip from then a few more moves lead to large holds that face to the left and are good if you can lean hard to the right. And one more long pull to the last hanger to reach the anchors. See you next weekend. Nov 8, 2011
Michael Elias
Michael Elias  
Patrick, i was able to go slightly to the right and up after the ledge past the crux. There's a two finger pocket on the right that i use as an undercling and then i bring my left into a shallow two finger pocket pull up to a pretty descent right hand crimp, get my left foot up high and toss to a left handed side pull. I left plenty of chalk on these holds and was wondering if you had seen them. Maybe get some feedback. I still need to send.. Dec 20, 2011
Yun-yin
Yun-yin  
Stick to your beta, Mickie. It works. You're so close yesterday; crashing the crux every time. I think this is gonna be your first send in 2012! :D Jan 1, 2012
Red
Tacoma, Toyota
  5.13
Red   Tacoma, Toyota
  5.13
Mike Vaughn got the highly coveted first accent of this line yesterday. 1-8-11

The energy was there when he left the ground, I had the feeling he was about to get it. Fired every move with precision and accuracy. Great work Mike! Jan 9, 2012