Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Ben Boyd/ Mike Fitzgerald
Page Views: 1,060 total · 10/month
Shared By: BenClimbing on Jan 3, 2010
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Access Issue: Portions of the approach and cliffs of this area are on private land. Details

Description

Climb past tufas and cool flowstone features to reach a 4' roof. Powerful moves will lead past this feature to a perplexing and difficult traverse leading right to the high blocky arete. Follow arete to the top.

Location

Starts 15 feet right of Couples Fear Factor.

Protection

6 bolts to chains. The first bolt is as low as the rock allows. Easy to reach but use a stick clip if you are uncomfortable.

Photos

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Red
Tacoma, Toyota
Red   Tacoma, Toyota
Nice! New Route! Jan 4, 2010
Pat Mac
Salt Lake City
  5.12c
Pat Mac   Salt Lake City
  5.12c
Man after 4th bolt is where the line starts.

Was on this line last weekend. Left four draws on it. Not to be considered booty. Dec 5, 2011
Pat Mac
Salt Lake City
  5.12c
Pat Mac   Salt Lake City
  5.12c
2 stars. Unfortunately how this line is bolted it makes the route scary/dangerous. There is no reason why at all that the FA'ers couldn't have moved the bolts to make it safer. But whatever. It's not my money/hardware. Just kinda sad. Good moves though. Dec 12, 2011
BenClimbing
  5.12b/c
BenClimbing  
  5.12b/c
Here is a video of the climb, featuring the person claiming that the bolts are ill placed. vimeo.com/34694271 . Jul 28, 2015
BenClimbing
  5.12b/c
BenClimbing  
  5.12b/c
Myself and my partner in this project have quite a few routes under our belts and deliberated extensively about the bolt locations. We were forced to strike a balance between locations where the movement dictated an ideal bolt placement and the quality of the rock in those locations. If you watch, you will see the bolts are quite close together. You will also, hopefully, notice that this is not a brain-dead, eat a sandwich while belaying kind of climb. Enjoy, and if you find this a bit spicy, be extra careful/safe. Jul 28, 2015
Looks well bolted to me I want to give it a try. Looks like a rad line Nov 1, 2018