Cry a Little Send a Little
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Type: | Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
FA: | Jilian Wereb EFR, 4/5/18 |
Page Views: | 995 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | 1Eric Rhicard on Apr 6, 2018 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Add To-Do ·- Portions of the approach and cliffs of this area are on private land.
In 2015, Access Fund acquired key privately owned access parcels when foreclosed on by the bank to keep it in climbing-friendly hands. Please park and camp on Access Fund property and take the new trail down. Please donate today at accessfund.org/homestead to secure permanent access and conservation of the Homestead.
Description
This is a great route that I walked by for years as it just didn't look like there was enough climbing to make it worth the effort. What a blast this turned out to be. Start on a popcorn covered slab and angle left to a short section of slightly overhanging tufa climbing that has great holds, movement and flow. The steep face takes you to a corner system that looks like you could do with no hands. Despite easing considerably we didn't feel like we were slogging higher just to make the climb longer. The easiest climb at Tufa City and a great warm up for Couples... Tufa Yard Dash or any of the elevens. My guess is that by next year this will have as much chalk on it as any of the classics.
To be fair about the grade, we did this over the two days we were there. We climbed at Rough Rider all morning then as this side of the canyon got shade we hiked over to stay in the shade and climbed more. Then we set this up with the last two hours of light. We both found ourselves pretty pumped at the end of the steep crux section (could be we were tired from all the other routes we had done) but we had already climbed all day so we thought it is probably 5.10 but it could be a tad harder. If you don't enjoy the movement and holds on this I will be surprised.
To be fair about the grade, we did this over the two days we were there. We climbed at Rough Rider all morning then as this side of the canyon got shade we hiked over to stay in the shade and climbed more. Then we set this up with the last two hours of light. We both found ourselves pretty pumped at the end of the steep crux section (could be we were tired from all the other routes we had done) but we had already climbed all day so we thought it is probably 5.10 but it could be a tad harder. If you don't enjoy the movement and holds on this I will be surprised.
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