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Routes in Tufa City

Almighty, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Black Sunshine S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Calcite Cruiser S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Canned Heat S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Couples Fear Factor S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dead Sea S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Flying Cocksman S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fred's Route S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Grip It And Rip It S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ground Affects S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
John's Meat Market (aka: Fred's Line) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kryptic Curtain S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
La Linea Negra S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Micro Burst S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Millenium Meltdown S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Natural, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Rain Day S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Renegade S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sacrificial Pig S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Short and Stiff S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sidewinder S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Solar Delirium S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Spicy Crispy S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sun Burst S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
TuFa king $:@%*~! S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Tufa Tussle S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tufa Yard Dash S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tufa the Soul S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Tufa-one S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tufasize Me S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Via Ferrari S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Way 'Stead S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport
FA: Luke Anaya, Brent Bingham, Larry, Zach Anaya
Page Views: 2,269 total · 30/month
Shared By: Red on Oct 24, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Portions of the approach and cliffs of this area are on private land. Details

Description

Fun and hard tufa pulling. The first twenty feet are nothing special, but the following thirty feet are great. Really fun movement over cool features. Crux is at the top.

Unfortunately, the last bolt is in a less than favorable spot. I would have placed the bolt closer to the clipping stance, but the rock was very hollow sounding when tapping it with my hammer. I even went as far as to drill a hole where I wanted the bolt and got nothing but dust, no rock. I placed it in the closest solid stone. The clip adds a little inconvenience, but at least it is safe.

Location

It is the last route on the right side of Tufa City before you get to the rope access that leads to Tufa Yard Dash and the other routes at that ledge.

Protection

Bolts to wire gate shuts.

Photos

Aaron Townsley
Scottsdale, Arizona
  5.12
Aaron Townsley   Scottsdale, Arizona
  5.12
Super fun route, really good movement. Felt harder than other 12b routes I've done. Great line, thanks Red! Dec 26, 2017
Eric K
Leavenworth, Washington
  5.12b
Eric K   Leavenworth, Washington
  5.12b
Fun route, felt harder than other 12b routes to me. Dec 23, 2017
Rich Strang
Santa Fe, NM
  5.12b/c
Rich Strang   Santa Fe, NM
  5.12b/c
Awesome route!!!
Powerfull big moves on cool holds and Tufas.
Doesn't get much better!! Jan 1, 2014
Joseph M.
Tucson, AZ
  5.12a/b
Joseph M.   Tucson, AZ
  5.12a/b
Great Route! Big thanks to Big Red for putting in the time and money!! Apr 17, 2012
Pat Mac
Tempe
  5.12b
Pat Mac   Tempe
  5.12b
Here is some send footage.

vimeo.com/32647506 Jan 6, 2012
Pat Mac
Tempe
  5.12b
Pat Mac   Tempe
  5.12b
@ Eric, The one thing that Red forgot to mention about the guy who flashed it he's a 13+ climber. So yeah. There goes that argument. Nov 17, 2011
Red
Tacoma, Toyota
 
Red   Tacoma, Toyota
 
Nice work T~w/B! I'm pretty sure you grabbed the third accent.

This route saw a lot of traffic this weekend; three more sends with one being a flash. Very fun to watch! Already six sends in its first month, good stuff!

Eric, as far as I know, Pat is the only person to extend the last draw. The person that flashed it is not taller than you. Nov 14, 2011
Toast with Butter
Tempe, AZ
  5.12-
Toast with Butter   Tempe, AZ
  5.12-
I did this route and thought it was overall thought provokingly awesome tufa climbing. I thought the bolts were where they needed to be. I agree, the bottom is just toast, but the top portion is creamy butter! Nov 14, 2011
Hey Pat how is this well bolted if shorter people have to extend a draw? Poor Yunyin. Damn you Lucas! Ha ha. Nov 8, 2011
Pat Mac
Tempe
  5.12b
Pat Mac   Tempe
  5.12b
Super Fun features. Kinda loose rock leads to great tufa climbing to a crux just before the anchors. Tip for shorter people extend the last bolt so that clipping is easier. Well bolted red. Nov 8, 2011
Luis Cisneros
Tucson
Luis Cisneros   Tucson
awesome Red... great job... I can't wait to try it! Nov 4, 2011
Pat Mac
Tempe
  5.12b
Pat Mac   Tempe
  5.12b
Looking forward to getting on this one. Can't wait for this weekend perfect conditions. Nov 2, 2011
Red
Tacoma, Toyota
 
Red   Tacoma, Toyota
 
Thanks guys! I look forward to watching others enjoy this line! Oct 25, 2011
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
Congrats Luke!!!! Oct 25, 2011
RyanJames
  5.12-
RyanJames  
  5.12-
Great job Red and thanks for the route!

The upper 30 feet of this thing is so good! Sweet, hard moves over fatty tufas! What could be better!?!? Oct 24, 2011
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
Nice FA Luke! Oct 24, 2011
Red
Tacoma, Toyota
 
Red   Tacoma, Toyota
 
Thank you to everyone that supported me on this route! It was a journey I'm very happy I went on! Oct 24, 2011

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