Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: John Rosholt
Page Views: 2,470 total · 18/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Nov 28, 2007
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


49 Opinions

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Access Issue: Portions of the approach and cliffs of this area are on private land. Details

Description

Unlike the other steep tufa routes this one requires more delicate climbing up small insecure holds.

Climb up onto a boulder and cover some easy ground to the first bolt. Quickly the climbing becomes balancy and tough to read. Continue up getting the occasional "great" hold to some large rest huecos. Rest here a make a few cool layback moves to the mid anchors.

After the Mid Anchors the climbing changes dramatically to overhanging slopers. Pull a hard boulder problem V5? and continue up another 3 bolts to send Sun Burst 13a

Location

Between Tufa Tussle and Millenium Meltdown. Starts above a large boulder blocking the trail.

Protection

9 Bolts to Anchors

Photos

The first pitch is a crumbly POS! Dec 8, 2007
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
  5.12a
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
  5.12a
Really I thought the rock quality was pretty good. A few holds felt "crumbly" but nothing pulled off. I pulled alot more off of Black Sunshine and other routes on this wall. Like alot of Homestead routes they could use some more traffic to clean things up. Dec 9, 2007
BenClimbing
  5.11d
BenClimbing  
  5.11d
I also thought it way pretty clean relative to most routes at homestead. Just needs more traffic. Dec 29, 2009
Pat Mac
Salt Lake City
  5.11d
Pat Mac   Salt Lake City
  5.11d
For most of the route very clean. Watch out for the lose hold just before the mid point tufa curx. Seems like the rock there is white and brittle and one larger hold seems quite lose. But Ben is right. Sep 28, 2010
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
  5.11d
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
  5.11d
Fun climbing might be a little soft at 12- but I have not done a ton of routes to get a sense of the place. Feb 27, 2011
K-Tanz
Phoenix, AZ
  5.12a
K-Tanz   Phoenix, AZ
  5.12a
I didn't have any problems with rock quality. Perhaps this has seen more travel. I thought this route was a lot of fun! Would definitely recommend it. Need to come back for the send but thought the route was a lot of fun. Dec 17, 2012
Rich Strang
Santa Fe, NM
  5.12a
Rich Strang   Santa Fe, NM
  5.12a
My 2nd favorite of the weekend (TYD trumps ALL). Pretty fun to alternate between techy face moves and tufa climbing.
Rock is very good now-can't wait till next Xmas to look at the extention. Jan 1, 2014
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
  5.11d
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
  5.11d
Stay right as you begin moving up the tufas a little beyond Mid point. Where there are 3 verticaI pockets about the size of fingers you can go left but then you cannot do the next clip. I didn't and found myself unable to clip the second to last bolt and being 10 feet out getting to the big pod. When I lowered off I TR'd the moves right and they were a little more sustained. Go right Apr 6, 2018