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Routes in Tufa City

Almighty, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Black Sunshine S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Calcite Cruiser S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Canned Heat S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Couples Fear Factor S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cry a Little Send a Little S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dead Sea S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Flying Cocksman S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fred's Route S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Grip It And Rip It S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ground Effects S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
John's Meat Market (aka: Fred's Line) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kryptic Curtain S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
La Linea Negra S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Micro Burst S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Millenium Meltdown S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Natural, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Rain Day S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Renegade S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sacrificial Pig S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Short and Stiff S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sidewinder S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Solar Delirium S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Spicy Crispy S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sun Burst S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
TuFa king $:@%*~! S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Tufa Tussle S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tufa Yard Dash S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tufa the Soul S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Tufa-one S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tufasize Me S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Via Ferrari S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Way 'Stead S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Elevation: 3,764 ft
GPS: 33.176, -110.78 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 28,769 total · 207/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Apr 26, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: Portions of the approach and cliffs of this area are on private land. Details

Description

This is the orange and black streaked wall you can see driving in when you are at the second gate. This wall curves from east facing to south facing. The area called Tufa City starts more or less near the apex of the curve. The rock is good and the Tufa routes are fun. Climb fall to spring and later if you love the heat. The afternoon is a good time to be on this wall unless it is cold.

Getting There

Hike up the wash and turn left at the cairn to Slate Nation. Continue up trail past gully that separates Slate Nation from Finland. This gully is used if you approach Finland via the ridge trail. This trail starts about 100 feet from the parking area and branches left. It is a scenic hike but it takes a few minutes to get the legs working. There is also supposed to be a spot above Finland where you can rap in. Continue past the gully to find it. Dropping down the gully was easy enough. Climbing up the gully at the end of a day is work but the hike down is great.

Warning

Do not climb on tufas after a big rain or if the wall appears wet!
Tufas are very fragile and break really easily when wet.
Don't ruin climbs for everyone else! Thank you!

33 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Tufa City

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 53
John's Meat Market (aka: Fred's Line)
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 54
Tufa-one
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 33
Ground Effects
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 22
Fred's Route
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 40
Couples Fear Factor
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 72
Tufa Yard Dash
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 49
Micro Burst
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 24
Black Sunshine
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 26
Way 'Stead
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 14
La Linea Negra
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 12
Tufa Tussle
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 3
Solar Delirium
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 5
Tufasize Me
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 20
Dead Sea
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 14
Sun Burst
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
John's Meat Market (aka: F…
 53
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Tufa-one
 54
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Ground Effects
 33
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Fred's Route
 22
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Couples Fear Factor
 40
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Tufa Yard Dash
 72
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Micro Burst
 49
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Black Sunshine
 24
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Way 'Stead
 26
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
La Linea Negra
 14
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Tufa Tussle
 12
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Solar Delirium
 3
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Tufasize Me
 5
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Dead Sea
 20
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Sun Burst
 14
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Tufa City »

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Photos

Red
Tacoma, Toyota
Red   Tacoma, Toyota
  • PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB ON TUFAS IF THEY APPEAR WET! Tufas are very fragile and break really easily when wet. Don't ruin climbs for everyone else. THANK YOU!!
Oct 23, 2009
Braxtron
...
Braxtron   ...
Why the yelling, Red? Oct 23, 2009
Red
Tacoma, Toyota
Red   Tacoma, Toyota
Braxton Norwood, sorry to come off as yelling. I just want people that are viewing this page for beta on the place to know not to climb on wet tufas. I feel it should be mentioned in the description of the wall but I can't add it there since I did not create the page. Used caps so people might see it easier. Oct 26, 2009
I thought this area was sedimentary Limestone?
Also water soluable and so should be avoided after rains.

Isn't Tufa closer to Travertine than Limestone? Oct 29, 2009
Red
Tacoma, Toyota
Red   Tacoma, Toyota
There is plenty of climbing to be had at the Homestead after rain. However, most of Tufa City is unclimbable after a big rain because the wall and it's tufa's stay wet for weeks. I once saw the wall flowing water a month after a heavy rain! A small storm shouldn't effect the wall.

Sorry, I'm not an expert in Limestone so I don't know the type(s) that are at the Homestead, but there sure are tufa's on this one wall. Oct 30, 2009
RyanJohnson
Tucson, Arizona
RyanJohnson   Tucson, Arizona
  • Isn't Tufa closer to Travertine than Limestone?

Tufa and Travertine are both varieties of limestone. Both are carbonaceous precipitates, attaining key minerals from the calcite that makes up the majority of limestone. tufa is more porous than travertine. Travertine is generally formed near hot springs, while tufa forms in more moderate waters. Both can make the fantastic column structures we love to climb. Oct 30, 2009
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
This area would be a lot easier to follow if the Terrace area was separated off with it's own description. I'd be happy to write up the area description if someone moved the climbs over. Feb 10, 2010
I agree. The Finland Terrace should be separate from Tufa City. Feb 10, 2010
Red
Tacoma, Toyota
Red   Tacoma, Toyota
Good call, I too agree. I recommend that this area title be changed to just Tufa City since more of the routes listed here are from Tufa City. Make the new area Finland/Terrace. I'll move any routes I've added over... Feb 15, 2010
Sam Daley
Minneapolis, Minnesota
Sam Daley   Minneapolis, Minnesota
Would you be able to climb here in December? Nov 14, 2011
Pat Mac
Salt Lake City
Pat Mac   Salt Lake City
@ Sam Daley:
Yeh you totally can. Pretty cold though. Great conditions. Totally able to climb there in December. Nov 17, 2011
Aaron Townsley
Scottsdale, Arizona
Aaron Townsley   Scottsdale, Arizona
Bee Update as of 12-9-2017: There are bees @ the base of TYD, semi active during the heat of the day. In the evening you can access TYD via the first few moves of Tufa One and skip the bee hive pocket. There are also some bees hanging out by the first shade wall at the base of one of the drips. - They did not bother anyone, but keep your dogs away from there.

UPDATE: as of 12/23 on a cooler day there were no bees at the first shade wall area, and TYD was able to be climbed without issue even in the heat of the day. Dec 15, 2017
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Unless you want to roast start at Rough Rider then make the 20 minute walk over to this wall when it gets into the shade. Mar 12, 2018
K-Tanz
Phoenix, AZ
K-Tanz   Phoenix, AZ
Bees are back at the first big pocket of TYD. It may be wise to stick clip the first bolt and bypass that hold utilizing, as Townsley previously stated, the first bit of Tufa One. Mar 15, 2018

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