Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Mike Fitzgerald/Ben Boyd
Page Views: 1,550 total · 14/month
Shared By: BenClimbing on Jan 18, 2010
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Access Issue: Portions of the approach and cliffs of this area are on private land. Details

Description

Fun moves through crazy features lead to a cruxy dihedral just before a 6 foot roof. After the roof, one more big crank is rewarded with easier climbing and nice exposure.

Location

10 feet right of Spicy Crispy.

Protection

6 bolts (all orange hangers) to metolius rap hangers. SPECIAL PRECAUTION: when cleaning the route, do not swing out from below the third bolt or you may have a close encounter with a large cactus! The first bolt can be cleaned from the ledge. (edit) It would appear that lightning has removed the large saguaro so this is not an issue any more.

Photos

BenClimbing
  5.12c
BenClimbing  
  5.12c
Also, a longer sling is advisable for the 4th bolt to reduce rope drag as the roof is rather large. Jan 19, 2010
Fitz
Rogers, KY
 
Fitz   Rogers, KY
 
Great route with unique and exciting gymnastic movement! Dec 20, 2010