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Routes in The Left Wall

A White Bread World T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blade Runner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Bloomin' Idiot T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bloomin' Union T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Bus Stop to Nowhere T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Butternuts T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Central Scrutinizer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Certified Freak T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dihedral of Dagmar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dirty Deed T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Earth Diver T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Earth Puller S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Flashflood T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Follow your Doubt T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fool's Progress T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Giardia Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Guacamole T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
I'm On My Bike T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Insomnia T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Inz and Outz S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Just Another G T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mental Health T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Midwestern Gangster T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
More Anus Than Heinous T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Morticia T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Most Excellent T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Nervous Breakdown T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Ninja Warrior T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Noggin 'Nocker T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Original Sin T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Orphan Blood Cocktail T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Outrageous T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Phlegm Of Fury T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pyrrhic Victory T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Righteous Dump T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Righteous Pump T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rising Sun T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Slaughterfall T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Smoke Big Doobs, Suck Big Boobs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Spite and Malice T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Suzie and Ishmael Do the Nasty T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sword, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Terminator T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Thick and Thin T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tombstone T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turkish Tickling T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tyrant, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Uncle Fister T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vertebrae T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
What are you on? T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: J. Keith on original K. Kent on direct start/finish
Page Views: 197 total, 8/month
Shared By: Kevin Kent on Oct 24, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

A straightened out and much improved version of Righteous Dump. The old line was so wandering it really detracted from what is otherwise a nice route. It started on Fister, traversed under MATH, went up the nice dihedral, and then at the big roof traversed even further right to the Giardia anchor.

In 2015, I added 2 bolt direct start, put an anchor 15' above the roof capping the nice dihedral, and cleaned some loose blocks off the line.

Start just left of Giardia Crack, 2 bolts (5.10+) and then a run out but very easy romp (5.7) to the base of the obvious right facing dihedral. The dihedral is standard fun 5.10 Waterfallness. When you get to the roof instead of bailing out right as for the original line, buck up and claw your way up and over(5.11+). The gear is excellent to the roof and then there's a bomber small cam placement immediately above it, after which you make an exciting run for the anchor with nothing but air below your feet.

Protection

Double or triple rack of small stuff to #.75 C4. Singles of #1-3 C4.
Save a small piece or 2 for the roof. A couple draws/slings also.

Photos

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Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
 
I talked to Jason Keith about renaming this route since it's no longer a dump, which he was fine with, but after thinking about it some people might still want to do the original finish (I can't imagine why anyone would ever do the original start now) which keeps the whole adventure at 10+, so perhaps it should be kept as 2 separate routes. Oct 24, 2015