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Routes in The Left Wall

A White Bread World T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blade Runner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Bloomin' Idiot T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bloomin' Union T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Bus Stop to Nowhere T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Butternuts T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Central Scrutinizer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Certified Freak T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dihedral of Dagmar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dirty Deed T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Earth Diver T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Earth Puller S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Flashflood T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Follow your Doubt T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fool's Progress T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Giardia Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Guacamole T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
I'm On My Bike T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Insomnia T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Inz and Outz S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Just Another G T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mental Health T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Midwestern Gangster T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
More Anus Than Heinous T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Morticia T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Most Excellent T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Nervous Breakdown T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Ninja Warrior T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Noggin 'Nocker T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Original Sin T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Orphan Blood Cocktail T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Outrageous T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Phlegm Of Fury T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pyrrhic Victory T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Righteous Dump T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Righteous Pump T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rising Sun T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Slaughterfall T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Smoke Big Doobs, Suck Big Boobs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Spite and Malice T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Suzie and Ishmael Do the Nasty T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sword, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Terminator T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Thick and Thin T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tombstone T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turkish Tickling T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tyrant, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Uncle Fister T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vertebrae T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
What are you on? T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: D. Miller, D. Singer
Page Views: 2,703 total, 20/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Sep 11, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Giardia is a superb, all natural gear line for the grade, and classic Waterfall sports action. The crux involves some powerful moves over the roof/bulge on positive holds.

Turns out multiple people have ripped their crux gear #.5. Make sure you have some gear in before the roof.

This route starts above the obvious little spring at the base of the wall. Climb a slightly unpleasant off fist size crack to the roof which has a very thin crack splitting it. Plug in a couple pieces of gear, and get ready to crank out some awesome moves which seem puzzling until you start into it. Continue up the dihedral into a fantastic hands section. After that the crack begins to tighten down again into another little .10+/.11- section which guards the anchors.

This is one of my favorite pitches on the Left Wall. Always exciting and savory.

Location

Left side above Beer Spring

Protection

Standard

Photos

t.schwartz
  5.11
t.schwartz  
  5.11
No worries on puling gear...TWO X4 .75s are fixed at the roof (8/22/15), I could get the top one to wiggle a little but the bottom one is pretty keyed in there. Aug 23, 2015
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
After 17 seasons at the Waterfall, Toast's mention of gear failing on this pitch was the first I'd ever heard of it. Now it's pulling all the time??? Either something changed on the route, or you had better make sure you can climb .11+ at the Waterfall before trying this pitch. Plenty of safe routes around at that grade. Apr 13, 2015
Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
I too have seen multiple people rip the seemingly bomber and obvious .5 before the roof. Maybe add something about that to the route's description JJ? Apr 13, 2015
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Rusty memory, but isn't there a slammer #1 metolious TCU at the crux? I don't know if I ever placed this #.5. I could be wrong. Maybe it's post crux.... Glad you are okay. The first 20' was always kinda scrappy too, but a 6" fall at 20' generates a lot of force, maybe a runner would help. Or maybe it would be a perfect situation for a nice fixed wire? Apr 12, 2015
Jake Dayley
  5.11+
Jake Dayley  
  5.11+
BACK UP THE SEEMINGLY BOMBER BIG FINGERS PIECE BELOW THE CRUX BULGE!!!!!!
Today I ripped off the nice little flake/jug that everyone uses to launch into the crux and took a six inch fall onto the textbook looking purple camelot placed right there. It instantly ripped and I was caught by some back up pieces a bit lower. This piece, and equivalent sized pieces placed here have ripped on multiple people including the fellow (mentioned above) who decked and was seriously injured several years ago. The only reason I had two backup pieces this time is because four years ago I fell from the crux, ripped this piece, hit the slab below, flipped over, and nearly went head first into the ground. So back that piece up! The only explanation I have is that so many people have used that particular part of the crack that it is super greased up, so the lobes, even when placed trigger deep, can't get any purchase and skate. Never had this happen on any other route at the waterfall.

Incidentally, my partner an I reclimbed the pitch after losing the flake/jug and it doesn't seem much harder... Maybe a bit more solid at 11+ simply because you can't use it as a foot at the end of the crux. Still one of my favorite pitches at the Waterfall, definitely get on it, just back that piece up! Apr 12, 2015
Toast with Butter
Tempe, AZ
  5.11d
Toast with Butter   Tempe, AZ
  5.11d
great climb, but make sure u get the right knee bar at the start of the roof so that you can carefully place your blue metolius or eqivalent up high. I witnessed a well placed but lone purple BD cam pop out and the climber decked. Make sure to place solid on that roof to avoid directly staring into the eyes of Santa Muerte. Nov 15, 2012
Eric Foster
Chandler/Flagstaff, AZ
 
Eric Foster   Chandler/Flagstaff, AZ
 
Agreed, a very good climb. best one we did all day Oct 31, 2009
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
Awesome moves through the roof and pretty tough. Varied climbing with good gear. Jul 6, 2009