Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: D. Miller, D. Singer
Page Views: 2,882 total · 19/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Sep 11, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

32 Opinions

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Giardia is a superb, all natural gear line for the grade and classic Waterfall sports action. The crux involves some powerful moves over the roofy bulge on positive holds.

Turns out multiple people have ripped their crux gear #.5. Make sure you have some gear in before the roof.

This route starts above the obvious little spring at the base of the wall. Climb a slightly unpleasant off fist size crack to the roof which has a very thin crack splitting it. Plug in a couple pieces of gear, and get ready to crank out some awesome moves which seem puzzling until you start into it. Continue up the dihedral into a fantastic hands section. After that the crack begins to tighten down again into another little .10+/.11- section which guards the anchors.

This is one of my favorite pitches on the Left Wall. Always exciting and savory.


Left side above Beer Spring




Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
Awesome moves through the roof and pretty tough. Varied climbing with good gear. Jul 6, 2009
Eric Foster
Chandler/Flagstaff, AZ
Eric Foster   Chandler/Flagstaff, AZ
Agreed, a very good climb. best one we did all day Oct 31, 2009
Toast with Butter
Tempe, AZ
Toast with Butter   Tempe, AZ
great climb, but make sure u get the right knee bar at the start of the roof so that you can carefully place your blue metolius or eqivalent up high. I witnessed a well placed but lone purple BD cam pop out and the climber decked. Make sure to place solid on that roof to avoid directly staring into the eyes of Santa Muerte. Nov 15, 2012
Jake Dayley
Jake Dayley  
Today I ripped off the nice little flake/jug that everyone uses to launch into the crux and took a six inch fall onto the textbook looking purple camelot placed right there. It instantly ripped and I was caught by some back up pieces a bit lower. This piece, and equivalent sized pieces placed here have ripped on multiple people including the fellow (mentioned above) who decked and was seriously injured several years ago. The only reason I had two backup pieces this time is because four years ago I fell from the crux, ripped this piece, hit the slab below, flipped over, and nearly went head first into the ground. So back that piece up! The only explanation I have is that so many people have used that particular part of the crack that it is super greased up, so the lobes, even when placed trigger deep, can't get any purchase and skate. Never had this happen on any other route at the waterfall.

Incidentally, my partner an I reclimbed the pitch after losing the flake/jug and it doesn't seem much harder... Maybe a bit more solid at 11+ simply because you can't use it as a foot at the end of the crux. Still one of my favorite pitches at the Waterfall, definitely get on it, just back that piece up! Apr 12, 2015
Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
I too have seen multiple people rip the seemingly bomber and obvious .5 before the roof. Maybe add something about that to the route's description JJ? Apr 13, 2015
No worries on puling gear...TWO X4 .75s are fixed at the roof (8/22/15), I could get the top one to wiggle a little but the bottom one is pretty keyed in there. Aug 23, 2015