Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: D Bloom, J Crawley
Page Views: 1,371 total · 19/month
Shared By: john crawley on Jan 23, 2013
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

The first 100% bolted route at the waterfall. The first three moves off the deck are likely the crux of the route. Move up the dihedral onto the steep face. This leads into fantastic sports pulling on brilliant rock. Continue up the arete. The tenth bolt is on the left side of the arete.

Location

Start in the wide scoophedral left of midwestern gangter.

Protection

10 bolts to chains.

Photos

Toast with Butter
Tempe, AZ
  5.12+
Toast with Butter   Tempe, AZ
  5.12+
a high left foot and straight arm press with the right made the first move easy for me. the move before clipping the second bolt and the bust a move after the mantle were the two cruxes for me. Fun route on great rock with really cool moves. I found a really fun variation to the finish where one can make a delicate interesting traverse right, after the ninth bolt. A great offset nut protects a more direct finish to the anchors,not diminishing the grade, and making a more direct line to the anchors. May 9, 2014
Nick Schlichtman
Golden, CO
 
Nick Schlichtman   Golden, CO
 
Ripped off the "crimp slot" at the 3rd bolt. Sinker pocket remains. Probably not much harder, is now a more precise deapoint-ish move and I felt I was able to get a quick shake from the now absent hold. Thought this was a tricky read. Felt hard for the grade on the onsite. Could see 12c being fair with the beta. Don't expect a clip up as there is some exciting climbing to do. Fun and thoughtful. I think the finish Toast describes feels more natural (read direct), but can respect the FA wanting to establish an independent line. Feb 5, 2017