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Bus Stop to Nowhere
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British R
Avg: 2.3 from 3
votes
Routes in 1. The Left Wall
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A White Bread World T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Blade Runner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Bloomin' Idiot T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Bloomin' Union T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Bus Stop to Nowhere T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Butternuts T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Central Scrutinizer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Certified Freak T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Darren's Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Dihedral of Dagmar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Direct Tyrant (Var.) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Dirty Deed T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Earth Diver T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Earth Puller T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Flashflood T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Follow your Doubt T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Fool's Progress T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Giardia Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Guacamole T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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I'm On My Bike T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Insomnia T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Inz and Outz S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Just Another G T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Mental Health T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Midwestern Gangster T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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More Anus Than Heinous T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Morticia T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Most Excellent T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Nervous Breakdown T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Ninja Warrior T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Noggin 'Nocker T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Original Sin T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Orphan Blood Cocktail T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Outrageous T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Phlegm Of Fury T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pyrrhic Victory T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Righteous Dump T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Righteous Pump T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Rising Sun T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Slaughterfall T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Spite and Malice T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Suzie and Ishmael Do the Nasty T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Sword, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Terminator T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Thick and Thin T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Tombstone T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Turkish Tickling T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tyrant, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Uncle Fister T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Vertebrae T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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What are you on? T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 85 ft (26 m) |
| FA: | David Bloom and Joel Unema 2014 |
| Page Views: | 1,272 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Joel Unema on Apr 14, 2014 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
The Bus Stop to Nowhere starts in the dihedral just right of the start of Guacamole and Terminator. Climb up the dihedral and pull around to the right, climbing interesting ground to gain the thin seams on the face right of Guacamole. Continue up the seams through thin jams and sidepulls to gain a splitter finger crack in a corner.
Dave Bloom and I made the first known ascent of this line. A two bolt anchor had been placed by another party, but the line was completely un-cleaned.
Dave Bloom and I made the first known ascent of this line. A two bolt anchor had been placed by another party, but the line was completely un-cleaned.
Protection
RP's or small nuts essential, Single set of cams from 000 C3 to #2 C4 with doubles from 0C3 to 0.5 C4. A red or yellow slider is helpful.
Upon a few more ascents or attempts, consider bringing double set of sliders from blue to yellow with double rp's.
Protection is thin, sparse, and tricky.
Upon a few more ascents or attempts, consider bringing double set of sliders from blue to yellow with double rp's.
Protection is thin, sparse, and tricky.
Photos
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