Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: David Bloom and Joel Unema 2014
Page Views: 519 total · 9/month
Shared By: Joel Unema on Apr 14, 2014
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

The Bus Stop to Nowhere starts in the dihedral just right of the start of Guacamole and Terminator. Climb up the dihedral and pull around to the right, climbing interesting ground to gain the thin seams on the face right of Guacamole. Continue up the seams through thin jams and sidepulls to gain a splitter finger crack in a corner.

Dave Bloom and I made the first known ascent of this line. A two bolt anchor had been placed by another party, but the line was completely un-cleaned.

Protection

RP's or small nuts essential, Single set of cams from 000 C3 to #2 C4 with doubles from 0C3 to 0.5 C4. A red or yellow slider is helpful.

Upon a few more ascents or attempts, consider bringing double set of sliders from blue to yellow with double rp's.

Protection is thin, sparse, and tricky.

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Mike broad
Tucson, AZ
Mike broad   Tucson, AZ
For most people, I'd recommend TRing this first (from either phlegm or guacamole). I found this quite scary to try to onsite. Nov 12, 2014
AL .
UT
5.11 R
AL .   UT
5.11 R
Gave this thing an onsight attempt and ended up taking a 25 footer onto a yellow ball nut at the crux which resulted in a pretty gnarly ankle/foot injury. This thing is very serious PG13 probably even R rated when compared to other PG13's at the waterfall. As a gear suggestion I would've liked 2 Red ball nuts and 1 or 2 blue ball nuts, a yellow ball nut is nice, and I would've like doubles of the smallest brass out there. Mar 2, 2018
Joel Unema
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11
Joel Unema   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11
Sorry to hear that Aaron. I have updated the description based on your input and I hope you heal up quick. Mar 2, 2018