Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Left Wall

A White Bread World T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blade Runner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Bloomin' Idiot T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bloomin' Union T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Bus Stop to Nowhere T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Butternuts T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Central Scrutinizer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Certified Freak T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dihedral of Dagmar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dirty Deed T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Earth Diver T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Earth Puller S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Flashflood T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Follow your Doubt T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fool's Progress T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Giardia Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Guacamole T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
I'm On My Bike T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Insomnia T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Inz and Outz S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Just Another G T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mental Health T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Midwestern Gangster T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
More Anus Than Heinous T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Morticia T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Most Excellent T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nervous Breakdown T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Ninja Warrior T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Noggin 'Nocker T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Original Sin T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Orphan Blood Cocktail T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Outrageous T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Phlegm Of Fury T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pyrrhic Victory T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Righteous Dump T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Righteous Pump T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rising Sun T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Slaughterfall T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Smoke Big Doobs, Suck Big Boobs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Spite and Malice T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Suzie and Ishmael Do the Nasty T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sword, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Terminator T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Thick and Thin T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tombstone T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turkish Tickling T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tyrant, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Uncle Fister T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vertebrae T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
What are you on? T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: David Bloom and Joel Unema 2014
Page Views: 472 total · 10/month
Shared By: Joel Unema on Apr 14, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The Bus Stop to Nowhere starts in the dihedral just right of the start of Guacamole and Terminator. Climb up the dihedral and pull around to the right, climbing interesting ground to gain the thin seams on the face right of Guacamole. Continue up the seams through thin jams and sidepulls to gain a splitter finger crack in a corner.

Dave Bloom and I made the first known ascent of this line. A two bolt anchor had been placed by another party, but the line was completely un-cleaned.

Protection

RP's or small nuts essential, Single set of cams from 000 C3 to #2 C4 with doubles from 0C3 to 0.5 C4. A red or yellow slider is helpful.

Upon a few more ascents or attempts, consider bringing double set of sliders from blue to yellow with double rp's.

Protection is thin, sparse, and tricky.

Photos

- No Photos -
Mike broad
Tucson, AZ
Mike broad   Tucson, AZ
For most people, I'd recommend TRing this first (from either phlegm or guacamole). I found this quite scary to try to onsite. Nov 12, 2014
Aaron Livingston
UT
5.11 R
Aaron Livingston   UT
5.11 R
Gave this thing an onsight attempt and ended up taking a 25 footer onto a yellow ball nut at the crux which resulted in a pretty gnarly ankle/foot injury. This thing is very serious PG13 probably even R rated when compared to other PG13's at the waterfall. As a gear suggestion I would've liked 2 Red ball nuts and 1 or 2 blue ball nuts, a yellow ball nut is nice, and I would've like doubles of the smallest brass out there. Mar 2, 2018
Joel Unema
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Joel Unema   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Sorry to hear that Aaron. I have updated the description based on your input and I hope you heal up quick. Mar 2, 2018

More About Bus Stop to Nowhere

Printer-Friendly