Type: Trad, 85 ft (26 m)
FA: David Bloom and Joel Unema 2014
Page Views: 1,183 total · 10/month
Shared By: Joel Unema on Apr 14, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

The Bus Stop to Nowhere starts in the dihedral just right of the start of Guacamole and Terminator. Climb up the dihedral and pull around to the right, climbing interesting ground to gain the thin seams on the face right of Guacamole. Continue up the seams through thin jams and sidepulls to gain a splitter finger crack in a corner.

Dave Bloom and I made the first known ascent of this line. A two bolt anchor had been placed by another party, but the line was completely un-cleaned.

Protection Suggest change

RP's or small nuts essential, Single set of cams from 000 C3 to #2 C4 with doubles from 0C3 to 0.5 C4. A red or yellow slider is helpful.

Upon a few more ascents or attempts, consider bringing double set of sliders from blue to yellow with double rp's.

Protection is thin, sparse, and tricky.


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