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Routes in The Left Wall

A White Bread World T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blade Runner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Bloomin' Idiot T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bloomin' Union T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Bus Stop to Nowhere T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Butternuts T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Central Scrutinizer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Certified Freak T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dihedral of Dagmar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dirty Deed T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Earth Diver T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Earth Puller S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Flashflood T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Follow your Doubt T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fool's Progress T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Giardia Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Guacamole T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
I'm On My Bike T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Insomnia T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Inz and Outz S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Just Another G T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mental Health T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Midwestern Gangster T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
More Anus Than Heinous T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Morticia T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Most Excellent T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Nervous Breakdown T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Ninja Warrior T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Noggin 'Nocker T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Original Sin T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Orphan Blood Cocktail T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Outrageous T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Phlegm Of Fury T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pyrrhic Victory T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Righteous Dump T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Righteous Pump T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rising Sun T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Slaughterfall T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Smoke Big Doobs, Suck Big Boobs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Spite and Malice T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Suzie and Ishmael Do the Nasty T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sword, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Terminator T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Thick and Thin T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tombstone T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turkish Tickling T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tyrant, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Uncle Fister T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vertebrae T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
What are you on? T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Unema/Crawley 2013
Page Views: 675 total, 12/month
Shared By: Joel Unema on Apr 8, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Follow your doubt up the twin thin cracks, stemming between and staying left when things get a bit too wide to bridge. Technical and engaging climbing over good gear leads to the imposing roof. Pull the roof and establish on the headwall to reach the anchors!

Location

This route is the obvious twin-crack stembox capped by a roof right of Earth Diver and left of White Bread World.

Protection

Gear, and only gear. Bring a double set from 000 to #2 camalot, extra green and red c3 size, a single #3 as well as a full complement of nuts. Protect mostly the left crack, then the roof, then clip the biners on the 2-bolt anchor!

Photos

Excellent route. Fun, varied movement with some exceptional stemming, and of course the awesome roof pull. I think the only real detractor is the (admittedly welcomed) no-hands on a small ledge before heading into the roof. Perhaps more solid at the grade than some other waterfall 12- offerings Jul 15, 2016
Toast with Butter
Tempe, AZ
  5.12b
Toast with Butter   Tempe, AZ
  5.12b
Another great line! Fun stemming with some big movement. I was glad to have lots of small gear including doubles of my medium to small nuts and two purple sized metolius' for the roof Sep 30, 2013