Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Unema/Crawley 2013
Page Views: 800 total · 12/month
Shared By: Joel Unema on Apr 8, 2013
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

Follow your doubt up the twin thin cracks, stemming between and staying left when things get a bit too wide to bridge. Technical and engaging climbing over good gear leads to the imposing roof. Pull the roof and establish on the headwall to reach the anchors!

Location

This route is the obvious twin-crack stembox capped by a roof right of Earth Diver and left of White Bread World.

Protection

Gear, and only gear. Bring a double set from 000 to #2 camalot, extra green and red c3 size, a single #3 as well as a full complement of nuts. Protect mostly the left crack, then the roof, then clip the biners on the 2-bolt anchor!

Photos

Toast with Butter
Tempe, AZ
  5.12b
Toast with Butter   Tempe, AZ
  5.12b
Another great line! Fun stemming with some big movement. I was glad to have lots of small gear including doubles of my medium to small nuts and two purple sized metolius' for the roof Sep 30, 2013
Excellent route. Fun, varied movement with some exceptional stemming, and of course the awesome roof pull. I think the only real detractor is the (admittedly welcomed) no-hands on a small ledge before heading into the roof. Perhaps more solid at the grade than some other waterfall 12- offerings Jul 15, 2016