Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Daniel Miller, Darren Singer
Page Views: 660 total · 7/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Sep 6, 2010
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

Insomnia is a heady lead, with steep, thin, and runout climbing on the menu. Start as you would for the Terminator, but at the top of the pillar, move left over blocky terrain towards the roof. Expect hard climbing for a bit, but it backs off a bit at the top.

Location

To the left of Terminator, and to the right of Spite and Malice.

Protection

Small/medium wires, small TCUs or equivilent, and whatever else you might need.

Photos

Matt S  
the start now has a pin but it only really protects the moves getting ONTO the death block. so dont fall OFF the death block. May 23, 2011
The pin can be backed up with a micro offset nut if you're into such things. Crux protects great, but if you fall off the block beforehand, you're gonna get banged up. Feels like a significant step up from Blade Runner in the seriousness category.

I'd recommend hauling up doubles from 00 to #2BD, a single #3BD, and stoppers (including tiny). Jan 7, 2015