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Routes in The Left Wall

A White Bread World T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blade Runner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Bloomin' Idiot T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bloomin' Union T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Bus Stop to Nowhere T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Butternuts T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Central Scrutinizer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Certified Freak T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dihedral of Dagmar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dirty Deed T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Earth Diver T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Earth Puller S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Flashflood T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Follow your Doubt T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fool's Progress T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Giardia Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Guacamole T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
I'm On My Bike T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Insomnia T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Inz and Outz S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Just Another G T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mental Health T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Midwestern Gangster T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
More Anus Than Heinous T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Morticia T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Most Excellent T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Nervous Breakdown T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Ninja Warrior T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Noggin 'Nocker T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Original Sin T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Orphan Blood Cocktail T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Outrageous T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Phlegm Of Fury T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pyrrhic Victory T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Righteous Dump T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Righteous Pump T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rising Sun T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Slaughterfall T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Smoke Big Doobs, Suck Big Boobs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Spite and Malice T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Suzie and Ishmael Do the Nasty T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sword, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Terminator T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Thick and Thin T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tombstone T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turkish Tickling T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tyrant, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Uncle Fister T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vertebrae T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
What are you on? T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Darren Singer
Page Views: 2,871 total, 21/month
Shared By: Kole DeCou on Aug 23, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


64 Opinions

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Description

This is one of my favorite, all natural gear pitches of climbing anywhere. Easily toproped after climbing the Sword. A short bit of steep hands leads to finger crack which takes you under the roof. Plug in a black alien in a seam to the right, then bust out some wild moves out left, and undercling back right again to turn the roof. One more crux section guards the chains.

Location

Starts just left of the Sword, under the big roof 70 ft up.

Protection

Nuts, doubles to #2 Camalot with triples black-yellow Alien.
Robbie Brown
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11b
Robbie Brown   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11b
Can be done quite easily without 3 black alien sizes. I think i used 1 purple metolius, and 1 purple c3 and nothing smaller. Apr 2, 2013
Tim Heid
AZ
  5.11b
Tim Heid   AZ
  5.11b
Amazing pitch! Lots of varied climbing and plenty of tough moves separated by good rests. I'd recommend saving a #1/#2 camalot for the horizontal above the roof. Jun 20, 2012
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11-
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11-
one of the best pitches at the grade i have climbed in a while! The crux was a hoot but the block roof was a bit intimidating to yard on.. Feb 14, 2011
Darren Singer
Portland, OR
Darren Singer   Portland, OR
Vertebrae?? Why the name? When I was first tempted to hop on this line, I was worried about the block roof and whether it would cut loose while jamming through it. At a later date I came back with a crowbar and tension traversed over from The Sword, jumping up and down on it to no avail. I assume it is still wedged there (??). [I haven't been back to the WFall in 15+ yrs). Anyway, while cleaning the remainder of the route on the way down, I dislodged a loose block, behind which was the skeletal remains of some critter. Possibly it was a bat, with bleached white vertebrae bones shining in the light. May 6, 2010
Mike
Phoenix
  5.11a/b
Mike   Phoenix
  5.11a/b
From the ground this route appears sketchy to protect up high near the crux. However it actually protects quite nicely, just ensure you have several small cams & nuts. A fun route! Jul 9, 2009
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
A very classic pitch- just another must do if you're up there. Bring one #1, one #2, and one #.75 for the lower section. The crux may be getting up under the roof. This protects well with a couple #00 metolious. After the roof, there are nut placements, but a couple yellow metolious are nice to have. Two or three blue metolious/camalot are also a good thing to have. Sep 12, 2006