Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: D Singer, J Keith
Page Views: 777 total · 8/month
Shared By: Joel Unema on Apr 18, 2011
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Description

Phlegm of Fury starts to the right of Guacamole. Climb up blocks to short layback, then up and over small bulge. Work your way up the large flake system on the right side of the stembox. Once you are standing on top of the large flake, move left to gain the finger crack and sharp tips. Several desperate locks will get you past the crux, and keep trending right. There is another little crux up high that should get your attention again if you let it wander. After this crux, continue up the corner, placing gear in the crack and in bomber horizontal gas pockets. As the rock becomes more pocketed, the character of the climb changes, relying more on horizontal edges and pockets than only the crack.

Location

Middle of the left wall, right of the Terminator and Guacamole.

Protection

Triple set of TCU #0- #4, single set up to #2 Camalot, small/ medium wires, runners. Save some tips and fingers pieces for the top. Chain anchor- fixed biners.

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J Mo
Tucson, AZ
  5.11
J Mo   Tucson, AZ
  5.11
Fantastic and underrated. More solid down low than much of left wall. You can enter the crux thin section protected by #3 in pod opposite the small pillar. I like green, red, then purple c3 after exiting the left splitter, plus the bomber black met/75 at the hand jam Jan 20, 2014
Joel Unema
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11
Joel Unema   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11
In March 2015 this route was extended 30 feet, adding some very fun and well protected crack and pocket climbing. Bring extra 0 c3 through orange tcu to protect the finish. The grade remains 5.11. Mar 19, 2015
Casey Niggemyer
Flagstaff, Arizona
Casey Niggemyer   Flagstaff, Arizona
Careful when lowering off the phlegm. About 40 feet above the deck is some choss on an arĂȘte just left of the route. I was lowering someone yesterday when the rope knocked loose a toaster sized block which ended up hitting the climber who was about twenty feet beneath. May 18, 2015