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Routes in The Left Wall

A White Bread World T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blade Runner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Bloomin' Idiot T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bloomin' Union T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Bus Stop to Nowhere T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Butternuts T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Central Scrutinizer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Certified Freak T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dihedral of Dagmar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dirty Deed T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Earth Diver T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Earth Puller S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Flashflood T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Follow your Doubt T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fool's Progress T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Giardia Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Guacamole T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
I'm On My Bike T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Insomnia T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Inz and Outz S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Just Another G T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mental Health T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Midwestern Gangster T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
More Anus Than Heinous T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Morticia T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Most Excellent T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Nervous Breakdown T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Ninja Warrior T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Noggin 'Nocker T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Original Sin T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Orphan Blood Cocktail T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Outrageous T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Phlegm Of Fury T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pyrrhic Victory T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Righteous Dump T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Righteous Pump T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rising Sun T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Slaughterfall T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Smoke Big Doobs, Suck Big Boobs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Spite and Malice T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Suzie and Ishmael Do the Nasty T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sword, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Terminator T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Thick and Thin T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tombstone T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turkish Tickling T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tyrant, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Uncle Fister T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vertebrae T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
What are you on? T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, Sport, 105 ft
FA: Kevin Kent, Nate Duray 3/2014
Page Views: 1,029 total · 22/month
Shared By: Kevin Kent on Mar 30, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Pyr·rhic Vic·to·ry
noun \ˈpir-ik\ˈvik-t(ə-)rē\:
A victory with such a devastating cost that it is tantamount to defeat.

Start in the same spot as Vertebrae but move up the bolted face. Follow the bolts to a shallow dihedral, and up to the splitter roof crack, resisting the urge to move right onto Vertebrae. After pulling the middle of the roof continue up overhanging ground to the chains.

Taller people will probably find the bottom crux much easier than I did because their height should obviate dynoing.

Protection in the middle dihedral is mostly small and can be tricky to place, so beware.

I should also mention that while cleaning this route I wailed on the seemingly detached roof blocks (including the Vertabrae roof) with a 3' wrecking bar and they are completely solid.

Protection

3 bolts. Lot of slings, double rack from 000 C3 to .3 C4 with maybe a third .3 size piece, one #2 C4, and tiny to medium nuts should be adequate.

In order I used:
2 draws,
one long runner,
yellow mastercam (blue/yellow offset mastercam would be better if you have it)
medium nut
purple C3
small RP
medium RP
grey C3
yellow mastercam
#2 C4
blue mastercam
yellow mastercam

I would advise putting a full length sling on every piece to avoid the rope running sharply over the edge of the roof.

Please leave the fixed biners on the chains

Photos

Toast with Butter
Tempe, AZ
  5.12
Toast with Butter   Tempe, AZ
  5.12
Good route, once you make the 12 range dynamic crux the remainder is interesting 11 range movement. I placed a gold, blue and a bomber red dmm offset nut, along with a good smallest blue ball nut just before the vertebrae roof along with a few blue and yellow metolius'. Thanks to this page I now know what both pyrrhic and obviate mean, so that's fun too and probably more useful in the long run than sending another climb. May 5, 2014