Avg: 3.2 from 6 votes
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 105 ft|
|FA:||Kevin Kent, Nate Duray 3/2014|
|Page Views:||1,029 total · 22/month|
|Shared By:||Kevin Kent on Mar 30, 2014|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
A victory with such a devastating cost that it is tantamount to defeat.
Start in the same spot as Vertebrae but move up the bolted face. Follow the bolts to a shallow dihedral, and up to the splitter roof crack, resisting the urge to move right onto Vertebrae. After pulling the middle of the roof continue up overhanging ground to the chains.
Taller people will probably find the bottom crux much easier than I did because their height should obviate dynoing.
Protection in the middle dihedral is mostly small and can be tricky to place, so beware.
I should also mention that while cleaning this route I wailed on the seemingly detached roof blocks (including the Vertabrae roof) with a 3' wrecking bar and they are completely solid.
Protection3 bolts. Lot of slings, double rack from 000 C3 to .3 C4 with maybe a third .3 size piece, one #2 C4, and tiny to medium nuts should be adequate.
In order I used:
one long runner,
yellow mastercam (blue/yellow offset mastercam would be better if you have it)
I would advise putting a full length sling on every piece to avoid the rope running sharply over the edge of the roof.
Please leave the fixed biners on the chains