Type: Trad, 105 ft
FA: Kevin Kent, Nate Duray 3/2014
Page Views: 1,238 total · 18/month
Shared By: Kevin Kent on Mar 30, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Pyr·rhic Vic·to·ry
noun \ˈpir-ik\ˈvik-t(ə-)rē\:
A victory with such a devastating cost that it is tantamount to defeat.

Start in the same spot as Vertebrae but move up the bolted face. Follow the bolts to a shallow dihedral, and up to the splitter roof crack, resisting the urge to move right onto Vertebrae. After pulling the middle of the roof continue up overhanging ground to the chains.

Taller people will probably find the bottom crux much easier than I did because their height should obviate dynoing.

Protection in the middle dihedral is mostly small and can be tricky to place, so beware.

I should also mention that while cleaning this route I wailed on the seemingly detached roof blocks (including the Vertabrae roof) with a 3' wrecking bar and they are completely solid.

Protection

3 bolts. Lot of slings, double rack from 000 C3 to .3 C4 with maybe a third .3 size piece, one #2 C4, and tiny to medium nuts and a ball nut or 2 should be adequate. There is a placement a bit a above the third bolt that is the only gear in that area which takes a blue/yellow metolius offset cam much better than any non-offset cam.

I would advise putting a full length sling on every piece to avoid the rope running sharply over the edge of the roof.

Please leave the fixed biners on the chains

Photos