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Routes in Medlicott Dome, Center

Beer T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
D'oh! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Donuts TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Excellent Smithers S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Forsaken T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goldmember T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Piss Easy (aka West Face of Medlicott) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shagadelic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Greg Barnes, Bryan Law
Page Views: 177 total, 7/month
Shared By: Robert Shortt on Sep 14, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details


Start in a decent corner crack with a short, fun bulge, then a little more crack to a hollow flake. Two bolts protect well on an extremely thin, crimpy slab for a couple moves that feel like 5.10-, but I'll give the FA/SuperTopo the benefit of the doubt and just call it 5.9+ :-)


Follow the climber's trail to the base of Medlicott Dome, center. There is a right-leaning ramp at the base of the few single-pitch routes here, and "Beer" is the left-most. It might be easier to find "D'oh" (aka the first pitch of "Excellent Smithers"), which is an obvious 5.7 knobby hand crack in a corner. From here, just left of this is a corner to roof ("Donuts" 5.10a TR) and left of this is "Beer", a thin corner crack to a small bulge. Try to spot the two bolts around 50-60' up, but you won't be able to spot the anchor.


2 bolts up high, single rack. The anchor is only two bolts with hangers, no rappel rings. You can set up TR on "Beer", but you should move right on an easy ledge to rapp from "D'oh"/"Excellent Smithers P1" anchors.