Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Greg Barnes and Bryan Law (2007)
Page Views: 1,072 total · 9/month
Shared By: Robert Shortt on Sep 14, 2015 · Updates
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


18 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Start in a decent corner crack with a short, fun bulge, then a little more crack to a hollow flake. Two bolts protect well on an extremely thin, crimpy slab for a couple moves that feel like 5.10-, but I'll give the FA/SuperTopo the benefit of the doubt and just call it 5.9+ :-)

Location Suggest change

Follow the climber's trail to the base of Medlicott Dome, center. There is a right-leaning ramp at the base of the few single-pitch routes here, and "Beer" is the left-most. It might be easier to find "D'oh" (aka the first pitch of "Excellent Smithers"), which is an obvious 5.7 knobby hand crack in a corner. From here, just left of this is a corner to roof ("Donuts" 5.10a TR) and left of this is "Beer", a thin corner crack to a small bulge. Try to spot the two bolts around 50-60' up, but you won't be able to spot the anchor.

Protection Suggest change

2 bolts up high, single rack. The anchor is only two bolts with hangers, no rappel rings. You can set up TR on "Beer", but you should move right on an easy ledge to rapp from "D'oh"/"Excellent Smithers P1" anchors.

Photos

0 Comments