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Elevation: 9,673 ft
GPS: 37.85632, -119.426
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 189,937 total · 909/month
Shared By: RichLarge on Dec 30, 2006
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Warning Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Medlicott Dome is perhaps the best crag in Tuolumne with a high concentration of great climbs.

Getting There Suggest change

For an approach we drove 5.1 miles from the meadows store to a small pullout on the left (per a newish Reid/Falkenstein guide, '09?), hiked a climber's trail eastward to a well maintained trail (Tenaya Lake Trail), turned right here and in about 100 yards came to another climber's trail on the left marked with a small cairn. From here the trail pretty much takes a straight, aerobic, uphill line to the base of the cliff at the Smithers route.

58 Total Climbs

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Location: Medlicott Dome Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Medlicott Dome

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 153
Shagadelic
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 61
The Yawn
Trad 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 72
Excellent Smithers
Trad 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 31
Ciebola
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 12
Kill Bill
Sport, Alpine
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
 6
You Asked For It
Trad 4 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 14
Titty Twister
Sport, Alpine
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 13
Loco Yokel
Trad 2 pitches
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 7
Shiner
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
 11
Bachar-Yerian
Trad 4 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 32
Scorpion
Trad 3 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 18
Wailing Wall
Trad 4 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
 14
Shipoopi!
Sport 4 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
The Lighter Side
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 5
Peace
Sport 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Shagadelic W Face, Center
 153
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
The Yawn W Face, Left
 61
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Excellent Smithers W Face, Center
 72
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Ciebola W Face, Right
 31
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Kill Bill Wart (aka Lake of the…
 12
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, Alpine
You Asked For It W Face, Right
 6
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X Trad 4 pitches
Titty Twister Wart (aka Lake of the…
 14
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, Alpine
Loco Yokel W Face, Left
 13
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Shiner W Face, Right
 7
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Bachar-Yerian W Face, Right
 11
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X Trad 4 pitches
Scorpion W Face, Left
 32
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 3 pitches
Wailing Wall W Face, Left
 18
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad 4 pitches
Shipoopi! W Face, Right
 14
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Sport 4 pitches
The Lighter Side W Face, Left
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Peace W Face, Right
 5
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Medlicott Dome »

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