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Areas in Medlicott Dome

Sticks and Stones 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Wart (aka Lake of the Domes Dome), The 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 7
West Face, Center 7 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
West Face, Left 6 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
West Face, Right 8 / 10 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
Elevation: 9,673 ft
GPS: 37.856, -119.426 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 86,348 total · 597/month
Shared By: RichLarge on Dec 30, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Medlicott Dome is perhaps the best crag in Tuolumne with a high concentration of great climbs.

Getting There

For an approach we drove 5.1 miles from the meadows store to a small pullout on the left (per a newish Reid/Falkenstein guide, '09?), hiked a climber's trail eastward to a well maintained trail (Tenaya Lake Trail), turned right here and in about 100 yards came to another climber's trail on the left marked with a small cairn. From here the trail pretty much takes a straight, aerobic, uphill line to the base of the cliff at the Smithers route.

43 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Medlicott Dome

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 103
Shagadelic
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 36
Super Chicken
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 20
Goldmember
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 32
The Yawn
Trad 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 46
Excellent Smithers
Sport 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 13
Pretty in Pinkpoint, P1
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 18
Ciebola
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
 4
You Asked For It
Trad 4 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 6
Loco Yokel
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 15
15 Minutes of Fame
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 8
Big Time
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 13
Scorpion
Trad 3 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
 6
Bachar-Yerian
Trad 4 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 11
Wailing Wall
Trad 4 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
 3
Shipoopi!
Sport 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Shagadelic W Face, Center
 103
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Super Chicken W Face, Left
 36
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Goldmember W Face, Center
 20
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
The Yawn W Face, Left
 32
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Excellent Smithers W Face, Center
 46
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 4 pitches
Pretty in Pinkpoint, P1 W Face, Right
 13
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Ciebola W Face, Right
 18
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
You Asked For It W Face, Right
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X Trad 4 pitches
Loco Yokel W Face, Left
 6
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
15 Minutes of Fame W Face, Right
 15
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Big Time W Face, Right
 8
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Scorpion W Face, Left
 13
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
Bachar-Yerian W Face, Right
 6
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X Trad 4 pitches
Wailing Wall W Face, Left
 11
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad 4 pitches
Shipoopi! W Face, Right
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Sport 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Medlicott Dome »

Weather Averages

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BCramer
Prescott
BCramer   Prescott
For an approach we drove 5.1 miles from the meadows store to a small pullout on the left (per a newish Reid/Falkenstein guide, '09?), hiked a climber's trail eastward to a well maintained trail (Tenaya Lake Trail), turned right here and in about 100 yards came to another climber's trail on the left marked with a small cairn. From here the trail pretty much takes a straight, aerobic, uphill line to the base of the cliff at the Smithers route. Sep 3, 2014

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