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Routes in Medlicott Dome, Center

Beer T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
D'oh! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Donuts TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Excellent Smithers S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Forsaken T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goldmember T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Piss Easy (aka West Face of Medlicott) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shagadelic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: G Barnes and Karin Wuhrmann
Page Views: 5,524 total · 39/month
Shared By: Adam on Dec 31, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15 Details

Description

The crux for me was on the 3rd pitch in a sallow left facing corner rock's a little funky for pro there, but there's a pin not to far below. Excellent slab climbing. Thanks to Greg Barnes for all the hard work on this and all the other great routes he's put up!!!!!

Location

left of the big arch about 100' there's a splitter kinda wide crack 3" up to a ledge. that's the start. Can't miss the route from there.

Protection

Bolts/Cams. bring lot's of draws.

Photos

Great route that's got great pro for T-Meadows. I give it a 5.10a rating. Some beta for the 4th pitch: follow the many bolts (in a sea of orange knobs) until they seemingly run out and you can't figure out where the next one is...go way up and right and keep you eyes peeled. The first acentionists should have gone straight up to the last stance at the current belay on pitch 4 instead of wandering out to the left..just me and my partner's opinion. Jul 17, 2012
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
  5.10a PG13
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
  5.10a PG13


Excellent Smithers is not really a sport route. Bring gear up to 3 inches, especially small cams for the third pitch. Two 60m ropes are needed to rappel.

ROUTE DESCRIPTION
The route starts just a bit left of where Medlicott's east side trail meets the wall.

Pitch One (5.7, 25m): Climb the obvious, knobby, hand crack. Move left on face holds to the belay bolts and nice ledge.

Pitch Two (5.10a, 15m): Face climb past 6 bolts. Bolt belay on a foothold.

Pitch Three (5.10a, 35m): Four bolts lead up more hard face climbing to a small roof where the gear placing begins. The gear is all behind a thin flake and there is still a hard move above; not that well protected to be called a "sport pitch". After the thin flake and white roof, it is still a long way to the belay. Medium cams are useful.

Pitch Four (5.8, 60m): Nine bolts up a sea of golden knobs to the last belay. Jun 23, 2013
"The first acentionists should have gone straight up to the last stance at the current belay on pitch 4 instead of wandering out to the left..just me and my partner's opinion."

That's funny...because I did go straight up! Turns out there's a hard friction bulge that way, so I traversed left to the obvious weakness and up that (back right) to the belay ledge. Then we moved the line to where it's left-trending to get to the easy way through the bulge (and we added a bunch of bolts).

Definitely not a sport route, even by "Tuolumne sport" standards... Jul 10, 2013
Great route! I've done it twice with friends...one complained about the line on P4. Good to know about the "why" in that the route G.B. took was the best possible way considering all of the ramifications. I will let Keesee know what G.B. had to say. Feb 6, 2014
Hobo Greg
My Van
5.9
Hobo Greg   My Van
5.9
If you were initially worried by the "gear behind thin flake" comment, don't worry, it's not at all a thin flake but rather a small corner. Bomber nuts in there. Jun 27, 2018

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