Avg: 3 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches|
|FA:||Greg Barnes, Brian Bennett, Elmar Stefke, Paul Rasmussen, George Ridgley, 2012.|
|Page Views:||1,801 total · 20/month|
|Shared By:||Greg Barnes on Jul 12, 2014|
|Admins:||Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15.
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Fun, varied, and a bit heads-up route that climbs the face left of Chartres. This is not R by old-school ratings, but it's probably too runout in some cruxy spots for a PG13. With wandering approach pitches and some route-finding, this route will take longer than many similar length routes. Deflector shares short crack sections of Chartres, and if you want to top out on Medlicott Dome you'll have to climb the final pitch of Chartres (5.8 R, fragile/delicate knobs & flakes). Knobs, finger crack, lieback, steep edging, slab, gold polish edge incuts, flakes - lots of variety.
Currently the finger crack is somewhat vegetated, so beware you may need to clean a bit for the best pro. In wet years, this route will stay wet for a while in early season.
Except for the easy runout approach pitches, the pitches are probably 5.9, 5.8 PG13, and 5.9 PG13/R in ratings plus runout ratings.
Climb the finger crack for 30', then traverse left across the face to the lieback corner. Climb this to the top, then step left onto the protruding flake, and climb steep edgy face past 5 bolts to a bolted anchor. Next pitch climbs past a bolt to a slopey ledge, left to the obvious lieback flake, then straight up huge knobs to a hidden bolt when the flake heads right. Continue up diminishing knobs to another bolt, then 2 closely spaced bolts lead right to a bolted belay. Next pitch is sustained and not tightly protected. Climb the thin seam (tiny nuts, microcams - with a newly added bolt right off the belay to prevent a factor-2 if the tiny gear blows) to a bolt, then gold rock up and left quite a ways to another bolt, and then an even larger runout up slopey shelves to a doubled bolt (optional belay, this was doubled to allow rapping with a single 70). Cruxy slabby moves right past a bolt to a steep knobby streak, up past another bolt to horizontal cracks, right and up to 2 closely spaced bolts protecting steep juggy knobs, and a final section with horizontal thin cracks for pro gains the anchor. This pitch is about 170' and rope drag can be an issue, so long slings can help.
The first rappel is quite a ways to the side, and you must tension traverse (or pendulum) to reach the anchor.