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Routes in Medlicott Dome, Right

15 Minutes of Fame S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bachar-Yerian T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Big Time S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ciebola T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Coming, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Deflector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Going, The TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Golden Rose S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hill Crest Drive S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Lead Doll S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Peace S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Pretty in Pinkpoint, P1 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pretty in Pinkpoint, P2 S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shady Rest S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Shard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Shiner S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shipoopi! S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Slacker/Carrion T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Techno Tango T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
You Asked For It T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Greg Barnes, Brian Bennett, Elmar Stefke, Paul Rasmussen, George Ridgley, 2012.
Page Views: 829 total, 20/month
Shared By: Greg Barnes on Jul 12, 2014
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

NOTE: the approach pitches are in the Medlicott raptor closure area so check ahead of time if this climb is closed!

Fun, varied, and a bit heads-up route that climbs the face left of Chartres. This is not R by old-school ratings, but it's probably too runout in some cruxy spots for a PG13. With wandering approach pitches and some route-finding, this route will take longer than many similar length routes. Deflector shares short crack sections of Chartres, and if you want to top out on Medlicott Dome you'll have to climb the final pitch of Chartres (5.8 R, fragile/delicate knobs & flakes). Knobs, finger crack, lieback, steep edging, slab, gold polish edge incuts, flakes - lots of variety.

Currently the finger crack is somewhat vegetated, so beware you may need to clean a bit for the best pro. In wet years, this route will stay wet for a while in early season.

Except for the easy runout approach pitches, the pitches are probably 5.9, 5.8 PG13, and 5.9 PG13/R in ratings plus runout ratings.

Location

Start by climbing the approach pitch to the Bachar-Yerian ledge (5.6 crack/slab) to the cold shuts. Second pitch climbs the face left and up - or straight above a new anchor out left (this anchor is for two new Steve Schneider & friends routes from 2013). There are 2 bolts (plus a 3" crack out left at the top) in about 120' of knobs, 5.7, or you can climb the gully by the base of the Bachar-Yerian (easy 5th to a few 5.6 moves protected by a knob tie off). On the upper large ledge, move left to a bolted anchor (3rd class) then to the second bolted anchor (a few 5th class moves to reach) - this anchor has a finger crack heading straight up above it. NOTE: this anchor is 130' above the ground, and a 70m will NOT reach. If you need to retreat here with a single 70, climb back all the way to the far right end of the big ledge, then rap to near the base of the Bachar-Yerian, and walk down to the cold shuts for the 5.6 approach pitch.

Climb the finger crack for 30', then traverse left across the face to the lieback corner. Climb this to the top, then step left onto the protruding flake, and climb steep edgy face past 5 bolts to a bolted anchor. Next pitch climbs past a bolt to a slopey ledge, left to the obvious lieback flake, then straight up huge knobs to a hidden bolt when the flake heads right. Continue up diminishing knobs to another bolt, then 2 closely spaced bolts lead right to a bolted belay. Next pitch is sustained and not tightly protected. Climb the thin seam (tiny nuts, microcams - with a newly added bolt right off the belay to prevent a factor-2 if the tiny gear blows) to a bolt, then gold rock up and left quite a ways to another bolt, and then an even larger runout up slopey shelves to a doubled bolt (optional belay, this was doubled to allow rapping with a single 70). Cruxy slabby moves right past a bolt to a steep knobby streak, up past another bolt to horizontal cracks, right and up to 2 closely spaced bolts protecting steep juggy knobs, and a final section with horizontal thin cracks for pro gains the anchor. This pitch is about 170' and rope drag can be an issue, so long slings can help.

The first rappel is quite a ways to the side, and you must tension traverse (or pendulum) to reach the anchor.

Protection

Pro to 3" including micro nuts and micro cams. Double up on thin (0.5"-1") cams. All anchors are bolted, the approach pitches (and lowest rap anchor) are on pre-existing routes. You can rap with a single 70m rope, but use caution on the final rappel to the ground, the rope is off the deck once you unweight! Luckily it's a completely flat sandy area so there's no worries about hopping down a couple feet if you somehow have a "short 70"!

Photos

old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.9 R
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.9 R
Finally got this project finished. Pretty awesome, good, varied climbing. Jul 22, 2014
Greg Barnes  
 
This route was mostly done in 2010, finished in 2012, but Elmar & I returned yesterday to add/move a few bolts and install the doubled pro bolt rap station on the final pitch (which allows rapping with a single 70m). Jul 13, 2014