Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m) |
FA: | Jake Whittaker |
Page Views: | 4,900 total · 23/month |
Shared By: | Salamanizer Ski on Aug 13, 2007 |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Goldmember is an excellent slab route halfway up Medlicott Dome. We accessed it by climbing Piss Easy, but other approach options may exist.
Also, the supertopo guide notes that Jake Whittaker put it up freesolo (!) and that it was later bolted by a party unaware of the fact it had been climbed. The FA expressly gave permission for the bolts to remain, I'd like to thank him for that generousity, so that mere mortals like myself could enjoy this excellent route.
From the large belay ledge atop p2 of Piss Easy, follow the 4" wide golden dike that trends up and left on very polished and slick granite, surmounting a few small overlaps. Fun thin slab moves all the way to the top, with a couple mantels. End at a hole in the rock with two bolts equipped with rap anchors.
Descent: I think you are supposed to rap down and left 50' to the Shagadelic anchors, then do two double rope raps to the ground. We didn't know this, and tried to go straight to the p1 shagadelic rap anchors directly below on the big ledge. With 2 60m ropes, I came up 20' short, and had to down solo some 4th class, which was thankfully above a large ledge. Be aware! Then, double rope rap to the ground.
Also, the supertopo guide notes that Jake Whittaker put it up freesolo (!) and that it was later bolted by a party unaware of the fact it had been climbed. The FA expressly gave permission for the bolts to remain, I'd like to thank him for that generousity, so that mere mortals like myself could enjoy this excellent route.
From the large belay ledge atop p2 of Piss Easy, follow the 4" wide golden dike that trends up and left on very polished and slick granite, surmounting a few small overlaps. Fun thin slab moves all the way to the top, with a couple mantels. End at a hole in the rock with two bolts equipped with rap anchors.
Descent: I think you are supposed to rap down and left 50' to the Shagadelic anchors, then do two double rope raps to the ground. We didn't know this, and tried to go straight to the p1 shagadelic rap anchors directly below on the big ledge. With 2 60m ropes, I came up 20' short, and had to down solo some 4th class, which was thankfully above a large ledge. Be aware! Then, double rope rap to the ground.
5 Comments