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Routes in Medlicott Dome, Center

Beer T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
D'oh! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Donuts TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Excellent Smithers S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Forsaken T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goldmember T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Piss Easy (aka West Face of Medlicott) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shagadelic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Jake Whittaker
Page Views: 2,725 total, 22/month
Shared By: caughtinside on Aug 13, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Goldmember is an excellent slab route halfway up Medlicott Dome. We accessed it by climbing Piss Easy, but other approach options may exist.

Also, the supertopo guide notes that Jake Whittaker put it up freesolo (!) and that it was later bolted by a party unaware of the fact it had been climbed. The FA expressly gave permission for the bolts to remain, I'd like to thank him for that generousity, so that mere mortals like myself could enjoy this excellent route.

From the large belay ledge atop p2 of Piss Easy, follow the 4" wide golden dike that trends up and left on very polished and slick granite, surmounting a few small overlaps. Fun thin slab moves all the way to the top, with a couple mantels. End at a hole in the rock with two bolts equipped with rap anchors.

Descent: I think you are supposed to rap down and left 50' to the Shagadelic anchors, then do two double rope raps to the ground. We didn't know this, and tried to go straight to the p1 shagadelic rap anchors directly below on the big ledge. With 2 60m ropes, I came up 20' short, and had to down solo some 4th class, which was thankfully above a large ledge. Be aware! Then, double rope rap to the ground.

Location

In the middle of the east face of Medlicott, above Piss Easy and right of Shagadelic.

Protection

9 lead bolts, optional gear. I placed 2 aliens and was very glad to have them!
Cimbing Ivy
bay area, CA
Cimbing Ivy   bay area, CA
Stout old school run-out slab with polished knobs. Superb quality to the last bits.

The fun and logical way to access it is to climb the first 2 pitches of Piss Easy. Bring your A-game or alternately, a green alien for the horizontal crack between the first and second bolts to protect from decking back onto the big belay ledge.

Rappelling with two 70m brings you back to the top of P1 of Shagadelic (rapping with two 60m would require down climbing some low angle slab.) Then a single 70m rap takes you back to the ground. Jul 8, 2012