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Routes in Medlicott Dome, Center

Beer T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
D'oh! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Donuts TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Excellent Smithers S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Forsaken T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goldmember T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Piss Easy (aka West Face of Medlicott) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shagadelic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches
FA: FA Greg Barnes and Barry Hutten, June 2001
Page Views: 6,293 total · 55/month
Shared By: Karl K on Aug 5, 2008
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

P1 - climb corner straight up (hand traverse from the right seems silly?), then up gully trending left. Before it gets too vegetated, clip the piton and bolts as you climb the face to the left of the gully to the top of the pillar. Bolted anchors are near the edge of the cliff (not back at the main wall). Will want small/medium cams to supplement bolts on the face. ~140' 5.7
P2 - Walk to the main wall & climb a small flake for ~15'. Climb the wonderful knobs up, left, and then back right. Just follow the bolts (10 bolts?) to the anchor. ~150' 5.7
P3 - Another bolted pitch, basically straight up. When you see the two bolts about 6 feet apart you know the 5.8 crux is upon you. 10 bolts? & Anchor. 140' 5.8
Either rappel the route from here (3 double rope rappels) or continue to the top:
P4 - Cross to the right side of the dike & find a tiny horizonal pod about 10' up and 5' right of the anchors. You can climb straight up from here to the roof (5.7) or wander a few feet right to go up 5.5 terrain. Turn the easy roof (5.2) with great pro & follow ledges & flakes up and right to the top of the dome.

Location

Probably easiest to identify by finding the pine tree 70' feet up the cliff (and 20-30' left of the climbing line). Blocky Class 2 leads to the starting ledge.
Descent- rappel from P3 or walk right to end of dome after topping out.

Protection

Normal rack & at least 10 quickdraws.
FA Greg Barnes and Barry Hutten, June 2001 Dec 2, 2017
Rprops
North Las Vegas
Rprops   North Las Vegas
1 bolt each on 1st and 2nd anchor is spinning. One of the last 3 bolts on p1 is also spinning. Sep 20, 2017
The small flake under the first bolt on P2 takes good gear. I placed a #.75 C4 cam at the top of the flake to protect climbing to the first bolt. Sep 26, 2016
KeithR  
Climbed this 7-9-16. One of the bolts at the P2 anchor is loose, and spins/wobbles under finger pressure. That doesn't seem right... Jul 10, 2016
Matt N
Santa Barbara, CA
 
Matt N   Santa Barbara, CA
 
The direct start (5.9) looks easier and better than it climbs. Sep 4, 2013
Kaleem Khwaja
Emeryville, California
Kaleem Khwaja   Emeryville, California
Re: no trad on P2/3: I actually slotted a #1 C4 on P3 to avoid runout, not that you really need it, but given the consistently tight bolt spacing except at that one spot, I assumed the FA intended natural pro there. After leading it 2 days in a row, I got the rack down to 5 pieces, which felt amazing (BETA ALERT: #8 stopper, #0.5 and 1 C4s, blue and green aliens). Not exactly sewn up, but sufficient. Jan 3, 2013
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.8
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.8
P1 & P4 aren't anything to write home about but the two main slab pitches (P2 & P3) are excellent. Both P2 and P4 get 5.7 in Supertopo but P2 seems a lot harder: UK grade HVS 4b 5a 5b 4a. From the top it's a long walk down and round back to the start. Sep 14, 2012
Brendan Moriarty
Berkeley, CA
  5.8 PG13
Brendan Moriarty   Berkeley, CA
  5.8 PG13
Really fun face climbing on pitches 2 and 3. Will test your nerves if you're not a confident face climber and/or experienced leading at that level as it's definitely exposed. That said, it's pretty well protected in these two key pitches. Pitch 4 is short and a little disappointing. Depending on how you look at it topping out via pitch 4 sets up an invigorating hike down with great views of Half Dame, Cathedral Peak and Tenaya Lake or a belabored, effortful trek which could have been avoided by rapping from the top of pitch 3. Jul 30, 2012
Both bolted pitches take 10 draws, no trad. Aug 18, 2008