Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Medlicott Dome, Center

Beer T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
D'oh! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Donuts TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Excellent Smithers S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Forsaken T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goldmember T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Piss Easy (aka West Face of Medlicott) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shagadelic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,063 total, 16/month
Shared By: caughtinside on Aug 13, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


11 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Piss Easy goes up the large crack in the right facing corner. Use a variety of OW moves and some features on the face. The low angle keeps the grade moderate.

p1--goes up the corner, surmounting a 2' bulge 3/4 of the way up, 5.8. Belay on a good ledge. 100'.

p2--Continue up the corner. The wide crack gets funkier, resulting in easier climbing, but harder to protect. I wouldn't call it run out though. 150', 5.7. Ends on large ledge.

The route continues up for a couple more pitches, but we didn't do them, opting to do the slab route Goldmember instead. There is no easy way down from the ledge atop p2, so you either need to continue up, or leave gear to rap. (you can rap if you do Goldmember.) Please add to this description if you've done the entire route.

Location

40 feet right of Shagadelic, 250 feet right of the Yawn.

Protection

Standard rack, emphasis on large cams (3 and 4 camalot)
FrankPS
Atascadero, CA
FrankPS   Atascadero, CA
Not sure why the roof is referred to as a "bulge." (also called a bulge in the guidebook) I think of a bulge as a hump, something smooth and rounded. Either way, the two pitches were fun. Sep 4, 2016
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.8 R
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.8 R
3 stars for the first 2 pitches and 1 star for the last 2. Jan 29, 2015