Type: Trad, 520 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 102 total · 44/month
Shared By: Derek Field on Jul 9, 2019
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

This rambling route follows the path of least resistance up the broad west face of Medlicott Dome.

Pitch 1 (5.6, 130'): Climb the first 60 feet of Shagadelic. Clip the fixed piton and dip right onto a 4th-class ramp. Belay at the top of the ramp.

Pitch 2 (5.4, 150'): Move up the short easy crack into easy terrain. Belay from the major diagonal ledge halfway up the formation.

Pitch 3 (5.6 R, 100'): As for Piss Easy. Layback a dirty left-facing flake before committing to a long runout slab.

Pitch 4 (5.4, 140'): Chug up a series of easy left-facing flakes to the horizontal shelves at the top of the dome.

Descent: Easy and incredibly gorgeous, but kinda long. Walk southward (toward Tenaya Peak / Cathedral Lake) along the top of the dome and descend 3rd class slabs and gullies to the Cathedral Lakes fishing trail which passes directly below the base of Medlicott Dome on its way back to the trailhead.

Location

This route starts on Shagadelic before cutting hard right on easy ramps to join Piss Easy

Protection

Gear to 3"

Photos

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