Type: Trad, 550 ft, 4 pitches
FA: FRA: Field/Field (Sept 2018)
Page Views: 839 total · 78/month
Shared By: Derek Field on Oct 4, 2018
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Kidney Stones is named for the abundance of feldspar megacrysts as well as the route's proximity to Piss Easy. Pitch 3 is the highlight, featuring characteristic Tuolumne knobbing in a memorable position. Pitch 4 goes all the way to the top of the dome.

Pitch 1 (5.8, 90 feet): Climb a knobby black streak past three bolts up to and through a small roof crack. Continue up a fun easy handcrack to a nice ledge. Belay takes gear to 1".

Pitch 2 (5.7, 160 feet): Take the seldom-climbed right-hand variation to the second pitch of Piss Easy. Follow a loooong wavy flake system up to the big diagonal ledge halfway up the face. Move straight up off the ledge to a semi-hanging belay below the striped headwall.

You might consider leaving most of your gear (except a couple 1-2" cams) at this belay if planning to rappel from the top of P3.

Pitch 3 (5.8, 180 feet): Scale the striped headwall on excellent knobs. As the angle eases off, keep chugging past widely-spaced bolts (5.6 R) aiming for the far right edge of a right-arcing roof. Hop over the edge of the roof and go straight up the slab ending at a two-bolt anchor below a white right-facing corner.

Most parties will probably choose to rappel ~180' down Pitch 3 and then rappel ~170' down and climbers' left to the last rappel station on Shagadelic. This can be done with two ropes.

Pitch 4 (5.4, 120 feet): Follow the low-angle corner as it arcs up and right to the top of the wall. Gear belay and walk off.

Descent: Easy and incredibly gorgeous, but kinda long. Walk southward (toward Tenaya Peak / Cathedral Lake) along the top of the dome and descend 3rd class slabs and gullies to the Cathedral Lakes fishing trail which passes directly below the base of Medlicott Dome on its way back to the trailhead.

Location

This route starts on the same starting blocks as Piss Easy, but goes straight up the black streak with 3 bolts to the crack in the right edge of the roof.

Protection

Standard rack to 3" + 10 draws + two ropes for rappel

All hardware consists of 3/8" x 3" SS wedge bolts with 3/8" SS hangers

Photos