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Routes in Medlicott Dome, Center

Beer T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
D'oh! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Donuts TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Excellent Smithers S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Forsaken T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goldmember T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Piss Easy (aka West Face of Medlicott) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shagadelic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 450 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Joe Denicola, Greg Barnes, Brian Bennett, Paul Rasmussen, 7/24/14.
Page Views: 463 total, 11/month
Shared By: Greg Barnes on Jul 25, 2014
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Cool new steep face route between Breathing Hard and White Line Fever. First pitch is a great stand-alone pitch at 5.10a. Second pitch is an easy ramp with one hard bulge. Third pitch is a sport pitch which climbs the steep, intricate face past 10 bolts (zero gear opportunities). The last 2 easy pitches are not new, they join Breathing Hard (& White Line Fever for the last 1.5 pitches).

Location

Start Breathing Hard, and move right at the big horizontal crack about 40' up (Breathing Hard takes the left crack then moves left on big knobs). Move up to a bolt, then back left to the offwidth groove (3.5" cam). Up the groove past a bolt to the top, then follow closely-spaced bolts right and up on steep thin edges & knobs to a bolted belay on the big ledge (100'). Second pitch (50') climbs the easy ramp which has one dirty, funky bulge (5.9, fixed piton) to a bolted anchor. Third pitch angles left following the bolts to a bolted anchor (100'). Rap from here with a single 60m rope (knot rope ends!!) or do 2 easy pitches to the top, starting past the only pro bolt on Breathing Hard (which is about 15' above the anchor - note that the Reid/Falkenstein topo incorrectly shows it much higher and further left). No fixed anchors above the 3rd pitch anchor.

Protection

Pro to 3.5", 10 draws.

Photos

Greg Barnes  
 
Oh yeah, in case any hard-core folks are wondering, we replaced all bolts on White Line FeverÂ…not that there are many. I also re-seated all pitons - there are more than shown in the topo - but some are kind of sketchy even re-seated. And a last tip for White Line Fever - there's a 2-piton "anchor" partway up the last steep pitch (5.9), this is just pro before the runout, the bolted belay is hidden under the big roof up top. Aug 27, 2014
squiddo Marc
Mountain View, CA
squiddo Marc   Mountain View, CA
Sweeeet Jul 27, 2014
Nice Greg, looks good! Jul 26, 2014