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Routes in Medlicott Dome, Center

Beer T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
D'oh! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Donuts TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Excellent Smithers S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Forsaken T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goldmember T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Piss Easy (aka West Face of Medlicott) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shagadelic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 359 total, 14/month
Shared By: Robert Shortt on Sep 14, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

First pitch of "Excellent Smithers", 5.10a. A good lead if you're looking for some 5.7 hands to break into. I didn't think the crack was painful at all (no annoyed grunts), but then again my Ocun crack gloves + TC Pros are practically cheating. Crux is where it's steep and a little wide, but knobs make for plenty of options. After the crack ends, there are some fun face moves and a couple little pieces to place before the top. Set up TR for "D'oh", "Donuts", and "Beernuts" (Or even "Beer" with a directional).

Location

Follow the climber's trail to the base of Medlicott Dome, center. There is a right-leaning ramp at the base of the few single-pitch routes here, and "D'oh!" (aka the first pitch of "Excellent Smithers"), is the most obvious, as a knobby hand crack in a corner. From here, just left of this is a corner to roof ("Donuts" 5.10a TR) and left of this is "Beer", a thin corner crack to a small bulge. You can spot the two bolts on "Beer" around 50-60' up, and you can see the anchor for "D'oh!" to the right of that.

Protection

Standard rack, with a couple in the bigger range (C4 #2-3). A #4 isn't necessary, but I think I stuck mine in there somewhere. Anchor has rapp rings directly into hangers. As I pulled rope through to rapp, the rope unlocked my biner gate for my PAS! Fun times.

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