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Routes in West Face, Center
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Beer T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Beernuts TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Broken Bit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Bumps T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Come and Get It T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Coming, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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D'oh! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Deflector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Donuts TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Excellent Smithers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Forsaken T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Going, The TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Goldmember T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Kidney Stones T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Like a Virgin S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Lone Ranger, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Piss Easier T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Piss Easy (aka West Face of Medlicott) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Shagadelic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Slacker/Carrion T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Techno Tango T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,745 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Robert Shortt on Sep 14, 2015 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
First pitch of "Excellent Smithers", 5.10a. A good lead if you're looking for some 5.7 hands to break into. I didn't think the crack was painful at all (no annoyed grunts), but then again my Ocun crack gloves + TC Pros are practically cheating. Crux is where it's steep and a little wide, but knobs make for plenty of options. After the crack ends, there are some fun face moves and a couple little pieces to place before the top. Set up TR for "D'oh", "Donuts", and "Beernuts" (Or even "Beer" with a directional).
Location
Follow the climber's trail to the base of Medlicott Dome, center. There is a right-leaning ramp at the base of the few single-pitch routes here, and "D'oh!" (aka the first pitch of "Excellent Smithers"), is the most obvious, as a knobby hand crack in a corner. From here, just left of this is a corner to roof ("Donuts" 5.10a TR) and left of this is "Beer", a thin corner crack to a small bulge. You can spot the two bolts on "Beer" around 50-60' up, and you can see the anchor for "D'oh!" to the right of that.
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