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Routes in Medlicott Dome, Right

15 Minutes of Fame S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bachar-Yerian T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Big Time S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ciebola T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Coming, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Deflector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Going, The TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Golden Rose S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Peace S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Pretty in Pinkpoint, P1 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pretty in Pinkpoint, P2 S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Shiner S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shipoopi! S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Slacker/Carrion T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Techno Tango T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
You Asked For It T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Joe Denicola, Greg Barnes, Brian Bennett, 8/2012
Page Views: 464 total, 9/month
Shared By: Greg Barnes on Jul 8, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Fun crack/lieback (right start of The Coming) to sustained crux thin face. First pitch is a great cragging route and very tightly bolted in crux area. Upper pitches have no fixed anchors, great knobs, low angle knobby slab, and an airy but easy roof. 5.11a, 5.9, 5.7, 5.9, 5.2

Location

Start up the right (5.10a) start of The Coming, then continue straight up the face to a shallow left-facing corner (crux) and a bolted anchor at 110' (70m rope to lower). Pitch 2 follows bolts up the knobby face to trad anchor under a roof. Pitch 3 moves right to a bolt on the small roof, then over the roof (5.7) and up a long right-trending slab (1 more bolt, 1 thin cam if you find it) to a black belay ledge (thread sling, pro). If you move straight up and left from the 2nd bolt you may run into the single pro bolt on The Coming (if so you're too far left, move 40' right to belay). This pitch has 50' runouts on 5.6 terrain, more if you miss the thin cam. 4th pitch moves left and through the roof at the obvious flake (airy, exciting 5.9). Thin horizontal cracks on the face above for pro and an anchor (best anchor is thin finger/finger cams about 50' above the roof). Last pitch is 5.easy for a bit to 4th then 3rd class summit slabs.

Protection

Pro to 4", doubles of thin to 1" cams. 6 bolts + bolted anchor pitch 1, 5 bolts pitch 2, 2 bolts pitch 3, none on last 2 pitches.

Photos

Tony Lewis  
 
Replaced all bolts with 3/8" stainless. Great fun climb. 1st pitch is continuous 5.10 with 5.11 crux. Well protected crux pitch. Great rock. Sep 8, 2015