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Routes in West Face, Left
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Lighter Side, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Loco Yokel T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Scorpion T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Super Chicken T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wailing Wall T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Yawn, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | TM Herbert and Gordon Webster, June 1965, FFA: Phil Bircheff & Jan Ebeltoft, July 1969 |
| Page Views: | 11,983 total · 55/month |
| Shared By: | Adam on Dec 31, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Start the route below a prominent 10' horizontal roof crack (Wailing Wall, 11d).
P1, 160', 5.9- Move up and right on a series of orange and black cracks and flakes. This pitch can be a bit dirty and wet. You are aiming for a shallow right-facing layback feature. Do not head up into the main corner/roofline! Belay just above the layback feature. (See beta photo below).
P2, 160', 5.9+- Get ready to sweat! Start the leaning crack by pulling over several chockstones/flakes. The jams are bomber, but the body position, awkward. Enter the maw! OW and squeeze your way through the flare. Strike a balance between the security of the back of the flare, and the slightly easier climbing towards the outside of the flare. I had success pushing a #4 C4 through much of the first half of the flare. Emerge, catch your breath, and climb easy liebacking on the right side of the flake. Belay under the roof, or continue to the bottom of the 5.7 "hand" crack to set up for pictures!
P3, 130', 5.7- Route-finding is a no-brainer. Follow the stunning "hand" crack in the back of the giant flare. Stem/chimney, or jam straight in. Your choice! Belay wherever, but if you are still hauling a pack, stop and belay somewhere to facilitate a clean haul.
P4, 175', 5.8ish- Keep following the right-facing feature. Pull around a bulge. The terrain eases from there. Stop atop a giant sandy ledge. There is a stout tree for a belay.
To top out, move left, and 4th class your way up some terraces, before cutting right along ledges to a saddle on top of the dome. Generally, the hardest climbing through this section is not exposed, but some climbers may opt to continue using a rope...
P1, 160', 5.9- Move up and right on a series of orange and black cracks and flakes. This pitch can be a bit dirty and wet. You are aiming for a shallow right-facing layback feature. Do not head up into the main corner/roofline! Belay just above the layback feature. (See beta photo below).
P2, 160', 5.9+- Get ready to sweat! Start the leaning crack by pulling over several chockstones/flakes. The jams are bomber, but the body position, awkward. Enter the maw! OW and squeeze your way through the flare. Strike a balance between the security of the back of the flare, and the slightly easier climbing towards the outside of the flare. I had success pushing a #4 C4 through much of the first half of the flare. Emerge, catch your breath, and climb easy liebacking on the right side of the flake. Belay under the roof, or continue to the bottom of the 5.7 "hand" crack to set up for pictures!
P3, 130', 5.7- Route-finding is a no-brainer. Follow the stunning "hand" crack in the back of the giant flare. Stem/chimney, or jam straight in. Your choice! Belay wherever, but if you are still hauling a pack, stop and belay somewhere to facilitate a clean haul.
P4, 175', 5.8ish- Keep following the right-facing feature. Pull around a bulge. The terrain eases from there. Stop atop a giant sandy ledge. There is a stout tree for a belay.
To top out, move left, and 4th class your way up some terraces, before cutting right along ledges to a saddle on top of the dome. Generally, the hardest climbing through this section is not exposed, but some climbers may opt to continue using a rope...
Photos
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