Type: Trad, 600 ft, 4 pitches
FA: TM Herbert and Gordon Webster, June 1965, FFA: Phil Bircheff & Jan Ebeltoft, July 1969
Page Views: 8,961 total · 54/month
Shared By: Adam on Dec 31, 2006 with improvements by Dave Stimson
Admins: M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Start the route below a prominent 10' horizontal roof crack (Wailing Wall, 11d).

P1, 160', 5.9- Move up and right on a series of orange and black cracks and flakes. This pitch can be a bit dirty and wet. You are aiming for a shallow right-facing layback feature. Do not head up into the main corner/roofline! Belay just above the layback feature. (See beta photo below).

P2, 160', 5.9+- Get ready to sweat! Start the leaning crack by pulling over several chockstones/flakes. The jams are bomber, but the body position, awkward. Enter the maw! OW and squeeze your way through the flare. Strike a balance between the security of the back of the flare, and the slightly easier climbing towards the outside of the flare. I had success pushing a #4 C4 through much of the first half of the flare. Emerge, catch your breath, and climb easy liebacking on the right side of the flake. Belay under the roof, or continue to the bottom of the 5.7 "hand" crack to set up for pictures!

P3, 130', 5.7- Route-finding is a no-brainer. Follow the stunning "hand" crack in the back of the giant flare. Stem/chimney, or jam straight in. Your choice! Belay wherever, but if you are still hauling a pack, stop and belay somewhere to facilitate a clean haul.

P4, 175', 5.8ish- Keep following the right-facing feature. Pull around a bulge. The terrain eases from there. Stop atop a giant sandy ledge. There is a stout tree for a belay.

To top out, move left, and 4th class your way up some terraces, before cutting right along ledges to a saddle on top of the dome. Generally, the hardest climbing through this section is not exposed, but some climbers may opt to continue using a rope...

Location

You can't miss it. Huge corner on the far east side of the face.

Protection

Single rack 0.4" to 1", double 1.5-2", double or triple 3-4", optional 5". The belays are gear, and often eat up a big cam or two. Several runners and/or QD's are pretty nice for P1 (wandery) and P2 (deep placements).

Photos