Type: Trad, 450 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: John Bachar and Ron Peers 7/81
Page Views: 2,266 total · 50/month
Shared By: Jon Clark on Oct 14, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

The appropriately named "You Asked For It" ascends the largest black streak on the right end of Medlicott. It features enormous runouts over sustained and difficult climbing; another bold statement route from Bachar.

There are two options for the approach pitch. Both end on a broad ledge below the steep, imposing headwall.

1) Wander directly up the black streak on grainy rock with funky climbing and poor protection. 5.10

2) Start further right and climb a giant left rising flake at 5.7. This is likely the better option.

Pitch 1 After the approach pitch, set a belay to the left behind a good flake with 3/4" to 1.25" cams. Work up and right on balancy, cranker moves to the first bolt at 15 feet. Carry on with more of the same to the second bolt at 45 feet. Work up and right to better holds then back left and eventually the belay. This is a very serious pitch with ledge fall potential for a good portion of it. "5.10c" X, 75 feet
Pitch 2 Head straight up off the belay wondering where the holds went to the only bolt at 30 feet. Continue up on smeary, difficult slab climbing to a stance ten feet from the belay. Compose yourself and make one last hard move to the ledge and belay. Again, a very serious pitch. "5.10c" X, 115 feet
Pitch 3 Head up and right off the belay to an out of sight bolt 40 feet out. Continue up another 40 feet or so to a bizarre hole that takes a #3 camalot. Run it out another 50 feet to the belay. 5.10 X, 130 feet

Join One "Toke Over the Line" to the top and walk off or rap the route with two ropes.

Location

Follow the approach for the right end of the cliff. When you reach the base of the cliff, head right for a hundred yards or so.

Protection

pretty grim; 2 bolts for p1, 1 bolt for p2, 1 bolt and a #3 camalot for p3. The approach pitch takes gear from 1/2" to 2.5".

Photos