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Routes in Medlicott Dome, Right

15 Minutes of Fame S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bachar-Yerian T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Big Time S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ciebola T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Coming, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Deflector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Going, The TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Golden Rose S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hill Crest Drive S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Lead Doll S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Peace S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Pretty in Pinkpoint, P1 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pretty in Pinkpoint, P2 S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shady Rest S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Shard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Shiner S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shipoopi! S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Slacker/Carrion T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Techno Tango T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
You Asked For It T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Type: Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Vern Clevenger, Bob Harrington, Alan Barteltt, June 1977
Page Views: 3,266 total, 32/month
Shared By: john durr on Jul 25, 2009
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Ciebola has two excellent, but very different pitches.

Pitch 1 follows a thin crack past a pin and a bolt. Good thin cams/stoppers here. I think getting to the bolt is the crux of the pitch. Face traverse left around the roof 5.9+ and easy face leads past 2 bolts on a knobby face. Run it out on stimulating climbing 20 feet to the bolted belay, exciting 5.9+ here. 25 meters.

Pitch 2 head out right and up a ways on easy climbing to the first bolt. Up and right a ways again on exciting 5.9+ climbing to the second bolt then the bolts seem to come much more often for well protected, sustained knob climbing. At the eighth bolt climb up then right to 3 more bolts and a long traverse to the bolted belay. This traverse can be hairy for the second. 30 meters.

Rappel straight to the ground 60 meters or 30 meters (one rope) to the anchors at the top of the first pitch of Alien with a second 30 meter rappel to the ground.

Location

This route starts on the nice very thin seam right of Sweat Jesus on the northwest face of Medlicott Dome's far west side. Approach as for Bachar-Yerian then go west about 200 meters.

Protection

Thin stoppers to 1", include thin cams but no micro-nuts. A sling tie-off for the pin on the first pitch is probably safer than clipping the pin eye. Second pitch has 11 bolts. Double ropes can help with rope drag and better protect your second on the second pitch traverse.

All new big bolts thanks to the ASCA.

Photos

I believe the name for this route comes from the mythical "Seven Cities of Gold" in the Mexican desert also known as 'Cibola'.

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Seven…

In that vein the route name should actually be 'Cibola.' Aug 18, 2015
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
  5.10 PG13
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
  5.10 PG13
One of the best routes I did in three weeks at Tuolumne. Two very different pitches, both with their own memorable challenges. Incredible. Aug 24, 2014
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b PG13
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10b PG13
Coming back years later I forgot the first pitch is no give away. The second pitch is simply stunning. Jul 7, 2011
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
Funny that ropes are in meters but our minds are in feet...

Always wanted to do that "Sweat Jesus" you mentioned too....

Just funnin' with ya.... I'll pull these comments after the next typo fix. Jul 31, 2009
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
Is the first pitch really 100 meters, or is that feet? Jul 26, 2009