Type: Sport, 420 ft (127 m), 3 pitches, Grade III
GPS: 37.86017, -119.42856
FA: Ken Yager, Errett Allen, Noah Dailey, Oliver Tippett, Harrington Bubb
Page Views: 333 total · 19/month
Shared By: Undocked Piggies on Oct 24, 2024
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Up ya Go! Suggest change

Pitch 1: 5.12b 13 lead bolts, 2 anchor bolts. Bring 2-3 alpine/shoulder length slings. Sustained climbing on small knobs. Good luck! Lower off w a 70 meter rope. (I'm not sure if a 60 meter will get you down—might require shenanigans...) 

Pitch 2: 5.10d (I tried to include a red pepper emoji here. Some spice on this pitch.) 8 or 9 lead bolts, 2 anchor bolts. Fun knob climbing leads to a comfortable bivy ledge for young Hobbits and a crux bulge. Knob tie off available before the final runout. Take care getting to the anchor, traversing left then up. 70 meter rope will get you back down from the anchor. 

Pitch 3: 5.8R, 70 meter pitch. 4 lead bolts, .4 cam/yellow totem, anchor takes 1, 2, 3 size cams, knob tie offs on giant knobs. Climb up and right off the anchor joining the last two pitches of John Bachar's "Black Magic". I replaced Bachar's old bolts on this pitch. 

Pitch 4: 4th class? Hike up to the top and roll around in the grass at lake of the domes. 

Getting There Suggest change

Many options to get to the base, follow your nose and scramble up. It is easiest to go up ledges climbers right of the big black streak, starting on a cat walk and boulder step across. 

What to Bring Suggest change

13 sport draws, 3 alpine draws, a stick clip may be nice for the first 3 bolts off the ground, precise foot work. 70 meter rope and a single set of cams if you wish to reach the summit. 

Photos

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