Type: Sport, 200 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Steve Schnieder
Page Views: 2,425 total · 37/month
Shared By: Steven Roth on Jul 22, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

This is a great route that offers awesome, well-bolted knob climbing, some fun roof-pulling, and a great view of the Bachar-Yerian. All anchors are bolted.

P1: 5.11a
Start in the plant filled dihedral and climb out right following the blocky dike band (first bolt in the middle) until reaching the small the roof. Pull the roof where there is an obvious jug/point and a possible fixed nut. Continue up and right on some slabby face knobs to the anchor. (4 Bolts, Smallish gear below roof)

P2: 5.11d
This is the money pitch. Sustained, thin knob climbing that wanders up and around a straight line of bolts. The crux comes at the top. (11 Bolts)

P3/4: 5.10d /5.12a
It is possible to link these pitches since the fourth is about 15ft long. The anchors at the top of the 4th are questionable. Begin the 3rd with with the crux right off the belay (4 Bolts). On the 4th, pull the roof via a lond reach to a jug. Continue straight up through crimpy seams (2 Bolts).

Location

Climbs up brown wall left of obvious black streak containing the B-Y.
Climb up giant slab ramp past the B-Y to top ledge. Start climb in dihedral. Rap the route (P4 bolts are questionable)

Protection

Many Draws. Gear up to 1.5" for first pitch.

Photos

Antoine Tollenaere
Berkeley, CA
Antoine Tollenaere   Berkeley, CA
We did this route on 9/3/2016.

The anchors at the top of pitch 3 and 4 are not set up for rapping. p4 anchor is a 2x old 1/4 inch + a 3/8 inch. We ended up top roping the P4 and leaving some slings for rappelling at P3.
Bring a knife to clean up the rotten slings and some new slings and/or rap rings (or even better a bolt kit and rap chains to add to the top anchor).

We also saw some bolts higher up from the top of P4. Is it possible to top out? Sep 6, 2016
King Tut
Citrus Heights
 
King Tut   Citrus Heights
 
Very nice and steep knob climbing with a little bit of a slab crux at the top of the second pitch. More endurance than power by far. Probably only a somewhat harder 5.10 move at the top but by that time you are feeling it. Most rap after the second pitch. Mar 5, 2017