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Routes in Medlicott Dome, Left

Lighter Side, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Loco Yokel T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Scorpion T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Super Chicken T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wailing Wall T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Yawn, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 230 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Barnes, Wuhmann 2007
Page Views: 531 total, 13/month
Shared By: john durr on Aug 27, 2014
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This two pitch climb is another great modern route by the FA team, sure to be a future classic as it cleans up with more attention.

Pitch 1: Wander up about 40 feet of easy blocky terrain and fishish with 80 feet of sustained, excellent liebacking right up to the bolted belay. 5.10d ~120 feet.

Pitch 2: Crux face past two bolts near the belay leads to super fun, large golden knobs and five more bolts to another bolted belay. 5.10b ~120 feet.

Rap the route a single 60 meter rappel to the ground with two ropes or two 30 meter rappels with a single 70 meter rope, a single 60 meter rope would be sketchy.

Location

Just left of Super Chicken, starts behind a large pine close to the wall.

Protection

Bolts and gear set of stoppers, set of small cams, one set of cams to 3" (blue camelot), extra thin to finger size. Both pitches end at bolted rap anchors.

Photos

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