Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Medlicott Dome, Left

Lighter Side, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Loco Yokel T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Scorpion T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Super Chicken T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wailing Wall T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Yawn, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Dale Bard & Bob Locke - July, 1976
Page Views: 2,158 total · 19/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Sep 29, 2008
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


14 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This is an awesome route that has a lot of variety: steep jugs to start, thin slab, a beautiful crack, and a roof. New ASCA hardware makes it a very safe outing as well.

Begin just left of The Yawn corner and the obvious Wailing Wall roof.

P1: Monkey out left on jugs, then stand up to clip two bolts. Pull up into a corner, clip a high bolt, step down and perform a thin traverse left. Finally, finish with super-thin slab moves up to the anchor. 5.11b, 100'.

P2: Thin moves off the belay past two bolts to an easy, fun crack. Bolted belay. 5.11b, 80'.

P3: Cruxy moves up a steep crack ease after a bit. Finally, pull a fun, airy roof above and traverse left to the anchor. Lower off this anchor back to the belay and TR your second up. 5.10d, 90'.

Rap from the anchor below the third pitch with two ropes back to the belay ledge at the start of the route.

Protection

Draws & slings, a single set of cams to #1 Camalot. Wires.

Photos

- No Photos -
fivefun  
If you don't want to bring a second rope you can easily rap with one 70m from the top. This climb was kinda spicy at the start before you clip the first bolt. Jul 17, 2017