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Routes in Medlicott Dome, Left

Lighter Side, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Loco Yokel T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Scorpion T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Super Chicken T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wailing Wall T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Yawn, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 700 ft, 4 pitches
FA: FA: Dave Calfee & TM Herbert - June, 1967
FFA: Dale Bard, Jim Bridwell, & Rick Accomazzo - 1975
Page Views: 2,729 total, 24/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Sep 29, 2008
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Wailing Wall ascends the obvious and beautiful golden buttress at the left side of Medlicott Dome (this buttress forms the corner of The Yawn). The first pitch is a bit notorious as well -- it tackles the massive roof just left of the Yawn. But the upper pitches are excellent and not to be missed!

P1: Climb the roof. Crazy, unlikely stemming! Belay at a bolted anchor. 5.11d, 90'.

P2: Head up a steep crack in the corner. Eventually the angle eases off as do the difficulties. Stretch the rope out to an obvious ledge system that trends up and right into a ramp. Belay at the highest point possible on this ramp. 5.10c, 180'.

P3: There are three options: Heading out left around the buttress above, or right (junky), or up through the middle -- this is supposedly the best, and is what we did. Climb up easy ground over some stacked blocks to below the ominous roof above. Place some gear in the solid rock above and jam and lieback your way up through the roof, finally to a welcome rest stance. Strenuous! Continue up the beautiful hand crack above (hopefully you've saved some gear), only stopping at a large, flat ledge near the end of the rope. 5.10d, 190'.

P4: Continue up the remaining 15' of crack, situate some gear, then traverse right to a knobby face. Follow this up into an easy corner system and again run the rope all the way out to 4th class near the summit. 5.8, 200'.

Walk off to the west, up over the summit, down the slabs, and back under the main face of Medlicott, back to your packs. Long, but quite easy.

Protection

Double set of cams from 0.3 Camalot to #2 Camalot. Wires.
Ales Kobrle
San Jose
 
Ales Kobrle   San Jose
 
Stars are for the first pitch only, interesting and unique.
Rest is not so interesting and quality of rock decrease compare with first pitch. I will say is not worth to do it. Specially if you have ability to do first pitch clean, you can spend your time batter then do mostly 5.6-5.8 climbing to the top with couple boulders + long descent. Aug 30, 2017
Nick Sullens
Yosemite/ Bishop
  5.11d
Nick Sullens   Yosemite/ Bishop
  5.11d
Excellent climbing on all pitches. We brought a single 3 and used it. The entire route is well protected. Jul 5, 2016